Now it is about two more “Fingers of the Peloponnese Hand”! In this context you have to be aware of the fact that this most southern part of mainland Greece is like a left hand directed downwards. In the paragraphs to be followed I go into the “East/Monemvasia Finger” and the “Middle/Mani Finger”. The “Peloponnese Hand” is where my husband and I went end of October last year. Traveling this Greek region steeped in history was a rewarding thing to do! And tourists at this time of the year were not plentiful. Find details of the whole trip in the next paragraph. After this, I will let you know what to do plus where to go for best hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants in the mentioned “Fingers”.

Before elaboration further, there is again my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary. It comes with all the upscale lodging we stayed and the (fine-dining) spots we ate.

Peloponnese & Athens in style, the itinerary overview

My travel report is split in four parts. My last post – part one – went into the trip outline, some general information and the first “Peloponnese Finger”, the “Thumb”. The latter is the region of Argolis with the town of Nafplio. Part two is the present one with the “East or Index Finger” and the “Mani or Middle Finger”. Region wise it concerns Laconia first of all. As to part three, the focus is on the “West or the Ring Finger”, the Messenia region, plus Olympia and the mountainous Arcadia region. And part four is about Athens.

While my husband and I did a road trip in the Peloponnese (part one to three), we were stationary in Athens. Throughout my reporting, you will learn about where to go for the best upscale hotels and restaurants. No easy thing in the Peloponnese I can tell you! However, in Athens, it went smoothly. Furthermore, I will let you know about some major sights everywhere we went (part one to three). In addition, you will also find some walking/hiking suggestions, as we like to explore the area on foot (part one to three).

From place to place in the Peloponnese, part II, “Peloponnese East & Mani Fingers”

1. “Peloponnese East Finger”

A good base on the “Peloponnese East Finger” is Monemvasia, a dramatic place just off the coast. When driving here from Nafplio, we did a stop in Tyros, a small, charming seaside town. It is great for a short walk along the beautiful pebbled beach. And Café Zorbas is good for a drink.

About the “Peloponnese East Finger”

Monemvasia

The absolute highlight on this “Finger” is Monemvasia, without any doubt. Nothing prepares you for the sight of this (almost) inhabited rock rising out of the sea. It is often compared to the Rock of Gibraltar, although it is only a fraction of its size. Yet it is still just as dramatic. Locals call this place “The Castle”, but it actually is a stunning fortified town. This medieval place comes with castle walls (lower town) and a fortress on the top (upper town). While the former is well-kept,

the latter is mostly in ruins, expect the Church of Hagia Sophia.

It is well worth climbing up to the upper town, not only to see the ruins but also for the views of the sea and the town of Gefira.

Find here the link to a hike leading around the rock and through both the upper and lower town. Recommended places for small bites in the area are Emvasis Café in the lower town and  Bakery Angelakos, south of Gefira.

Further activity “Peloponnese East Finger”

We did one more activity on the “Peloponnese East Finger”, and this was a walk/hike in its very south. It starts in a remote fishing village

leading along the beautiful coast. Nearby is also the Geopark of Agios Nikolaos, a petrified forest. While we did not have time to visit this attraction, it might be worth doing.

When being in the area and longing for fine pastry, head to Laconia’s capital, Neapoli Vion. Here you find several establishments offering such treats. My husband and I opted for this place and very much liked what we got!

Our hotel: Kinsterna Monemvasia, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese East Finger

Hotel Kinsterna is the only five-star accommodation far and wide. That is not all, it really is a dreamy property! This fort-like manor is perched up high on the hillside a short stretch down the coast from the Monemvasia Castle. It has origins dating back to the mid 17th century. When the current owners purchased the estate in 2002, it was in bad shape. Since 2006, it underwent renovations and reopened in 2010, restored to its former glory.

Out of the 52 rooms, my husband and I opted for a Premium Residence. These rooms offer much space (35-42sqm)

and come with a large terrace

as well as a marble bathroom.

Ours had a view of the gardens, which was nice. As to the decor, it was a lovely mix of traditional and modern elements. The one thing that we did not like so much was that the room was a bit dark. The daily rate amounted to 452€ with breakfast.

In terms of restaurants, there are two onsite. It is about the all-day Mouries and the Linos Tavern, which is only open seasonally (on certain days). We had dinner at the former once, but we did not return as the experience disappointed (mediocre food, inconsistent service). However, breakfast was a different affair with lots of choice and pleasant staff.

Otherwise, the facilities at Kinsterna are great. You find here two pools and an extensive activity program. And the staff was generally friendly and well trained.

Our restaurant: Athivoli Monemvasia, one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese East Finger

As we were not in favor of the restaurant at our hotel (see above), we dined elsewhere. And Athivoli,

a tavern on the coast south of the Monemvasia Castle, turned out to be a hit! On two occasions, it persuaded with well-made Greek cuisine that came with a modern twist now and then. I very much liked the starters just as fried local cheese (8€) or roasted aubergine (7€). Also the spinach salad was a good choice (10€). When it came to mains, we did not try out the meat dishes, but only had fish and seafood (15 to 18€). Yet these dishes were made with quality ingredients and immaculately prepared. And they were accompanied by original sides. The two desserts we had, Ekmek Kataifi (6€) and Lemon Pie(7€), were equally fine.

As to the setting, it was the most cultivated ambiance we encountered in a Greek tavern during our 17-day stay in this country. And the service was friendly and accommodating. We even got a gratis after-dinner liqueur on our second visit!

2. “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

On the transfer from the “East Finger” (Monemvasia) to Aeropoli and surroundings – where you find the most lodging options – , it makes sense to stop in Gythio, a picturesque coastal town. It is the capital of the so-called Lower Mani. If you have a sweet tooth, this patisserie makes heavenly pastries!

And also have a look at the Dimitrios Shipwreck on Valtaki Beach.

About the “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

Why Mani deserves a special mention

The “Mani Finger” is definitively something special! Whereas in other parts of the Peloponnese you find lovely landscapes with olive-studded hills and villages of golden stone, this is different in the Inner Mani (south of Areopoli). Both the land and people are austere. Stark, treeless mountain, stone fields and stone towers shape the landscape. Mani is home to the Maniots, known as fierce warriors, who used to fight seemingly endlessly about water and land. They built stone houses with castle-like towers, and this often in almost inaccessible hillsides.

It was not until the 1970s, when the national government reduced the local autonomy in Mani. From then on, new roads were constructed to bind all the towns to civilization. While this was the start to touristic development, mass tourism has not (yet) reached this part of the Peloponnese – and hopefully never will! For me, Mani is the most beautiful part we encountered here. It is different, wild, harsh, sometimes dismissive, but also authentic, relaxed and friendly.

What to do in (Inner) Mani

Touring the Mani villages

The unique combination of rugged landscapes, small villages with ancient tower houses (called pyrgospita) and remote, narrow beaches has its unique appeal. A good idea to get an impression of the Inner Mani is to go on a car tour. Here is a suggestion for a half- to full-day trip: Pirgos Dirou (Diros Caves) – Charouda (Temple of Taxiarchis) – Drialos (Church Agios Georgios) – Mezapos (Chalikia Beach) – Kato Gardenitsa (Church Naos tou Sotira) – Gerolimenas (beautiful coastal town, Restaurant Veludo, KaSeas Boutique Hotel) –

Vathia (tower houses) – Marmari Beach – Porto Kagio – Kokinogia (one-hour walk to Cape Tainaron Lighthouse) – drive back along the Mani east coast (towns with imposing tower houses: Lagia, Exo Nimfio and Flomochori / beach stops: Kokala Beach, Kontronas Beach).

Other things to do in Mani

We did not the above mentioned walk to Cape Tainaron but instead chose the one to Tigani Castle more northwest. And this was a rewarding thing to do! This estate in ruins sits on a spectacular peninsula that looks like a frying pan, which is actually its name in Greek. You have stunning views all the time, and you can roam around the ruins of a medieval fortress. Historians have varying opinions about this place (if it is the mysterious Grand Magne or something different). Anyway, it is fun exploring it a bit. Here is the link to this walk/hike, starting from the village of Agias Kiriakis. On your return, you could also do a detour to Church Panagia Agitria (maybe add another 50 minutes for walking).

Instead of making the above side trip, we shortly visited the village of Mezapos with its Chalikia Beach (see also above chapter). We had viewed it from Agios Kiriakis and wanted to see it up close. And we had two more places on our agenda which you should not miss on your Mani trip, Aeropoli

and Limeni.

he former is Mani’s capital and has a nice old town with its characteristic tower houses. Not far from it you find the port of Limeni, more a hamlet around an idyllic cove.

Our hotel: Aria Estate Mani, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

For quite some time we struggled to find a hotel to stay in style in the Inner Mani. As we were here at the beginning of November, many lodgings had already closed down for the season. Finally, we were fortunate to happen across Hotel Aria Estate! It is remotely situated on a hillside facing the sea, about 8 minutes by car either from Aeropoli and Limeni. What a gorgeous property it is! I was excited from the beginning when driving down the driveway.

And my enthusiasm lasted until our departure three nights later!

First of all, I adored the hotel’s fantastic setting and its tranquil vibe. Then I was fond of its layout and construction, an array of stone houses made in the typical Maniot architecture. It was built in 2018 and has 15 rooms. We opted for the top one-bedroom accommodation, the One Bedroom Superior Seaview Jacuzzi (48sqm, 340€ with breakfast per night). It is a dreamy place! It consists of a bedroom, a living room with a wet bar, a balcony and a terrace with a jacuzzi.

What a great thing to experience the sunset from here! I also liked the interiors, which are airy and all kept in bright colors. While the bathroom is not overly big, it was okay for the two of us.

The female hotel manager seemed to have a firm hand on the estate. She was always present to guide the staff (not all had a good command of English) and to take care of the guests. On site you also find two pools – one outdoor,

the other in the spa.

And there is a restaurant, more about it below.

Our restaurant: Horizon at Hotel Aria Estate Mani (Instagram), one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

It was impossible to find a similarly good dining spot as Restaurant Horizon at our hotel (see above) in the area. At least that was true at the beginning of November when some spots had already closed for the season. We dined here three times and found it to be one of the better eateries we had on our Peloponnese stay. And the (à la carte) breakfast at Horizon was definitely the best we experienced on our Greece journey (including Athens)!

On offer here is high-quality Mediterranean fare with a creative twist, here and there with a focus on local food. The dinner menu features starters just as sea bass carpaccio (15€) or local cheese croquettes (14€) and two salads (12€). For mains think of a regional chicken dish (18€) or shrimps with local pasta (20€). Desserts include their take of Bougatsa, a Greek custard pie, (10€) or more international choices just a chocolate mousse with ice cream (12€). When dining here three times in a row, there was enough variation in choices to prevent repetition.

The setting at Restaurant Horizon is nice with white linen-covered tables in the evening. Al fresco dining would have be an option on our stay, but we found it too chilly outside. And on one or two evenings, it also was quite cool inside as they let the entrance door as well as the terrace door open. Yet Horizon is not an exception in this regard, Greek people seem to love draughty restaurants … Staff was friendly and helpful but not always experienced, which however was not a major issue.

Looking forward and back to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (Part I, III & IV)

I started in the last post with an overview of the whole 17-day Peloponnese and Athens journey. In addition, i informed about some things to know when coming to this southernmost region of Greece, especially in fall. Plus, I began with part one of four in total, the “Peloponnese Thumb”, that is Nafplio and the Argolis region. As in all parts, I advised on some major sights including suggestions for walks/hikes. And as my husband and I look out for the best high-end hotels and restaurants everywhere we go, this topic is always covered in my reporting. Here in this very post, it was about the “Peloponnese East Finger” around Monemvasia and the “Peloponnese Middle or Mani Finger”. Part three will focus on the “Peloponnese West Finger” (Messenia)

and the mountain region of Arcadia.

Part four finally will go into a city-stay in Athens.

Date of stay: November 2024

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The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART II “East & Mani Fingers” first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART II “East & Mani Fingers” appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Seeking sun and warmth in Europe late October, my husband and I headed to the Peloponnese. We wanted to spend a fortnight in this most southern part of mainland Greece, followed by a three-day stay in Athens. Imagine it was our first visit to Greece ever. So far, we had thought it to be too touristy. Yet word had reached us that the Peloponnese with its wealth of historic treasures was not so, at least in fall. Thus, we set out to discover this piece of land. And it did not disappoint! While it was not always easy to find opportunities to stay and dine in style here, we managed somehow. Find out in my posts to come about our itinerary, what to do and where to go for best upscale hotels and restaurants in the Peloponnese. Of course, Athens is also part of my reporting – no problems here if you are looking to treat yourself! After outlining the whole trip in this post, I start with part one, the “Peloponnese Thumb”.

Before delving into the topic, first a few lines about the Peloponnese as a travel destination. And what to expect when vacationing here in fall.

Peloponnese as a travel destination

The southernmost region of Greece, less than an hour from Athens, is known for many things. It features not only untamed nature, pristine beaches and remarkable mountain peaks and villages, but also has an exceptionally rich history and culture. Think in this context of great archaeological sites just as Olympia or Epidaurus dating back to the ancient Greeks. Yet there is more, Greece also experienced the Byzantine era or a Venetian interlude. And it endured long periods of Ottoman rule too. All this thousands of years of civilisation left behind remnants in the Peloponnese ready to be explored!

Main sights: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”

Funnily enough, we all have a map of the Peloponnese. Just point your left hand to the ground, and there you have it. Your “Thumb” is Argolis with the beautiful town of Nafplio and Epidaurus. As to your “Index or East Finger”, it is where you find Monemvasia, a fortress town. Your “Middle Finger” is the Mani peninsula with its typical town houses and rugged nature. And your “Ring or West Finger” is the fertile Messenia with Kalamata, one of the bigger towns in the Peloponnese. As far as your small finger is concerned, it is beyond my knowledge where this is supposed to be. Finally, in your “Palm” lie Olympia, Sparta or Mystras, all historical sites, and the mountainous region of Arcadia.

When & how long to go to the Peloponnese

In terms of best travel time for the Peloponnese, April to June as well as September and October are good months. It is too hot in July and August, and high summer is the busiest season too. My husband and I went in the last days of October until mid November. The latter month is said to be often unstable weatherwise and is gradually getting worse. And I can confirm this. The first days were the warmest. The nights increasingly became colder, and the winds intensified. However, it was almost always sunny and warm enough in day time.

If you want to go to the Peloponnese in late fall, I suggest that you better chose the last two weeks in October. That comes with the additional benefit of more hotels still being open. And I find a fortnight the ideal period to explore Peloponnese’s main sights (the southern two thirds of the peninsula: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”).

14 days on the road in the Peloponnese & 3 days (stationary) in Athens

Here is my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary complete with all the upscale hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants we were.

As to the Peloponnese part, it is about the best lodging we found and that was still open (many hotels close down for the season end of October). In terms of dining spots in the Peloponnese, you have to be aware that there is not much around that merits the name “fine dining” outside of cities and high-end hotels. So, I have included the best restaurants we encountered offering an overall good enough experience, especially food wise.

My husband and I flew into Athens, picked up a rental car and drove to our first destination, Nafplio (three nights). In case you only want to explore the Peloponnese without a (stationary) stay in Athens, there is also the option to fly into Kalamata (“West Finger”). After discovering “the Peloponnese Thumb” we drove on to Monemvasia, on the “Index or East Finger” (three nights). Next was the “Middle Finger” with the Mani peninsula (three nights). Our last stay by the Mediterranean coast was in Messenia, the “Peloponnese Ring or West Finger” (two nights) before heading inland. And this was to the mountainous Arcadia (three nights). When doing this we travelled via Olympia to get an impression of this extraordinary historic site.

Our last drive was from the Menalon highlands to the airport where we returned our car and grabbed a taxi to get to Athen’s downtown for a three-day city stay.

What is next in my Peloponnese & Athens reporting?

Now to some information about the individual stops on our Peloponnese itinerary. This includes a couple of sights and walking suggestions.  And you get details about where we stayed and dined, and this in style whenever possible. As to Athens, I only go into our luxury hotel and the three fine-dining restaurants we dined at. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in four parts. I start in this blogpost with part one that covers the “Peloponnese Thumb” (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). The next one will be about the “Index or East Finger” and the “Middle or Mani Finger”. As to part three, I will go into the “Ring or West Finger” and Arcadia. And finally, in one more post I will address Athens.

From place to place in the Peloponnese itinerary, part I, “Peloponnese Thumb”

Nafplio & Argolis

Here it is about one of the most worth seeing towns in the Peloponnese, Nafplio. Yet also the surrounding area, the Argolis peninsula, has much to offer.

About the “Peloponnese Thumb”

On your way from the Athens airport to Nafplio, where you absolutely should stay because of its beauty, you can make a stop in Corinth. If you have half an hour to spare, take a quick look at the impressive Corinth Canal. In case you have more time, why not visit the ancient Corinth (we did not).

As to Nafplio, this first capital of the modern Greek state is a true gem! I have read that it is like a bigger version of the Plaka in Athens (old town), only more beautiful. And there is some truth in it. Think of gorgeous cobbled streets, a wealth of Venetian architecture or charming squares of every size. In its core you find the Syntagma Square,

which is not only vast and striking yet even paved in marble. Furthermore, there are three forts, from which you should visit the Palamidi Fortress

in particular. Plus, there is a great hike leading via the Palamidi Path

to Nafplio’s south, and this until the path comes to an end. Here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

A must-do sight in Nafplio’s surround is the Epidaurus amphitheater, one of the best-preserved of Greece’s ancient sites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you do a half-day trip, you can also visit a second such site, either Mycenae or Ancient Nemea. We opted for the lesser visited latter, which you could combine with a wine tasting in the area (we did not).

Our hotel: Navria Nafplio

When it comes to the best hotels in the “Peloponnese Thumb”, we did not look further than Nafplio. As this town is considered as its jewel, we absolutely wanted to stay here. There is the one or other luxury hotel in and around town, yet we did not think about choosing one of them. Either they do not get good reviews or are not in the historic old town. So, we opted for one of the many favourably rated boutique accommodations in town. In our case, it was Hotel Navria located on a small and relatively quiet square in the old town.

Right across the square there is its sister hotel, Aetoma, which also seems to be a good choice for demanding travelers. The lovely breakfast by the way, is available at Navria for both accommodations. And the two of them are only steps away from the bustling town center.

While Navria has modern interiors, its exteriors incorporate elements from the long gone by Ottoman period. As to rooms, six different ones are at your disposal. While many of them sound favourable, we went for the Suite. It features a balcony and a generous layout.

The bathroom is not big, but cleverly constructed with a pleasant walk-in shower and ample storage space.

Staff is extremely friendly and helpful, we felt very at ease here. And it was the least expensive room of our whole trip, it only cost us 165€ per night (with breakfast).

Our restaurants: Wild Duck, Valaora & Thyme, all in Nafplio

You have to know that Nafplio has lots of touristy restaurants, which are mostly traditional Greek taverns. Yet there are also some places which come close to what one understands under fine dining. This is especially true for Valaora, which is an upscale restaurant in a beautiful setting by the sea.

Also the service and the majority of our dishes, international food with a twist, were convincing.

When it came to our mains however, neither the Moussaka nor the Rooster Tortellini, both modern takes on the original receipts, were big throws. With the former, the aubergine was hardly recognizable and the meat subpar. As to the latter, the pasta dough was far too thick. And the prices were stiff compared to other restaurants in the area.

As to the second dining spot, Wild Duck served good contemporary creations

in pleasant surroundings.

Whereas I found the pricing okay, this was not so in terms of staff. When we showed up at the dining spot, they wanted to seat us outside, although we had a reservation – they did not ask about our preferences when we made it – and it was chilly. After lots of hesitation, they finally let us have seats inside.

Our third choice, Thyme, was the only one that was not in the town center but in Nafplio’s outskirts. We were nicely welcomed by the son, while his father is responsible for the kitchen. And the chef knows his job! There is only a small menu of European dishes with a contemporary touch, but everything we had was immaculately prepared and delicious.

Plus, it was good value for money. As to the ambiance, it was enjoyable with a modern flair.

Looking forth to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (part II to part IV)

After outlining a 14-day road trip itinerary in the Peloponnese and a three-day short stay in Athens, I went into part one of the voyage. That was about the “Peloponnese Thumb”, first of all the town of Nafplio (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). You have to know in this context that you have this southernmost piece of mainland Greece on your left hand. The next blogpost will be about two more of the “Peloponnese Fingers”. This is the “Index or East Finger” with the Monemvasia fortress

and the “Middle or Mani Finger”, which is a wild, rugged region. Part three covers the “Ring or West Finger”, Messenia, and the mountainous area of Arcadia, the “Peloponnese Palm”. Last, I inform about a city trip to Athens.

As far as the visit to Greece’s capital is concerned, my reporting will solely be about the luxury hotel we stayed and the three Michelin (starred) fine-dining restaurants we went. Regarding the others, I will let you know where to go for staying and dining in style (not always easy to find) but also what to do in the respective places. As my husband and I are avid walkers, I will provide some walking/hiking suggestions too.

Date of stay: November 2024

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The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART I outline & “Thumb” first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART I outline & “Thumb” appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is about the Brittany, the main focus of a road trip in North and Central France that my husband and I did in late summer 2024. To get here from our home country of Switzerland we travelled via the Champagne and the Normandy. Part one of my mini-series about the voyage went into it – and also gave an overview of the whole journey. In this very post, I concentrate on the Brittany. And part three – soon to appear on my blog – focuses on our way home from the Brittany that lead us to Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal. In all three posts, I inform about the itinerary including the major sights and some walking suggestions. And I let you know where to go for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants; here as mentioned it is about Brittany.

Before diving into the Brittany, first again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

From place to place in North & Central France, part II, Brittany

Brittany: Dinard, Perros-Guirec & Sainte-Marine/Combrit

As you have learnt by now, Brittany was our trip’s main focus. We totally spent twelve nights here, four in each spot. The start made two places on the north coast, first Dinard, in the region’s northeast. Perros-Guirec, in the northwest followed. And Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper on the west coast and at the same time in Brittany’s southwest made the end.

About Brittany

Walking/Hiking on GR 34

What I found brillant about Brittany is the fact that there is a walking/hiking trail running the entire coastline (GR 34). And this Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Trail) is about 2,000 km/ 1,243 mi long. Not that my husband and I did overly long tours, but we picked out the one or other stretch of track at every place we stayed. As to Dinard, I was fond of the walk from Dinard to Saint-Lunaire (link track Outdooractive). Around Perros-Guirec, I absolutely adored the trail from Sainte-Anne to Bringuiller (link track Outdooractive).

And in the department Finistère (around Quimper) the walk/hike on the Crozon peninsula was nice (link track Outdooractive).

Town hopping in Brittany

Of course, there is also much to in Brittany in case you do not want to walk or hike. We visited quite a numbers of towns and especially liked the following ones. I list them from northeast to southwest. Cancale is a pretty port and famous for its oysters.

And  I think we came across the most beautiful villages in Brittany just before reaching it on our way from Honfleur. Saint-Malo is a fascinating granite city with its impressive rampart but unfortunately overtouristed. Dinard – nicknamed “Cannes of the north” – is an absolute beauty with its numerous Belle Époque villas.

More to Brittany’s west, Tréguier is worth a quick visit with its huge cathedral, the beautiful narrow streets and little squares. Perros-Guirec is a charming small seaside resort with a relaxed feel.

The nearby Ploumanac’h is famous for its imposing, pink granite rocks. Lannion is a historic town with pretty houses and small paved streets.

In the region’s south, Quimper has not only a majestic cathedral but also a nice historical district. Plus it has a distinctive Breton Celtic character.

Concarnau is a small walled town, which is nice but very touristy (one of the most visited places in Brittany). As far as I am concerned, I liked the nearby Pont-Aven better, famous for its colony of painters in the 19th century. It is picturesquely nestled on the banks of the Aven river with enchanting alleys in the old town.

Our hotels in Brittany: Castelbrac Dinard, L’Agapa Perros-Guirec & Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

Now it is about the three (luxury) hotels we had in Brittany, which I regard as the possibly best you can find here. While the first two (Castelbrac and L’Agapa) are five-star establishments, the last (Villa Tri Men) is a four-star. Whereas the guest experience at Castelbrac was as perfect as it gets, this was not so at L’Agapa. Let me be straight, for me this accommodation is no real luxury hotel, it is rather a four-star. And I did not really warm to its vibe, which I found a bit old-fashioned. Hotel Castel Beau Site, a bit more in the west, might be a (better) alternative (built 1928, opened 2020, 28 rooms, 4-star). As to Villa Tri Men, it definitely is a four-star, yet one with an upscale ambiance. Now, to some more details to each of these three lodgings.

Castelbrac Dinard

This was the most upscale hotel of our voyage and also the best overall experience we had! It has a favourable position in Dinard, right on the beachfront promenade.

It was opened in 2015 in a historic building that used to house a museum of natural history. Now, there are 25 guest rooms looking out over the water, many with terraces, just as ours, which was huge (Prestige Room Terrace Sea View, 40 sqm, No. 4, 772€ per night with breakfast & one drink). Their style is refined yet laid-back, with Art Deco features.

Staff did a really good job, and we were served the most lovely breakfast.

Furthermore, you find here a bar, transformed from the museum’s former aquarium, and a Michelin-star restaurant (details follow below). But not enough, Castelbrac also has an outdoor pool, a small chapel and a vintage motorboat for excursions.

L’Agapa Perros-Guirec

As mentioned above, our stay here turned out to be a bit of a deception. The hotel is big for the area, where lodging tends to be small-scale (45 rooms).

It was opened in 2005 with some renovations made in the meantime. We had booked a room in one of the two annexes (Deluxe la Désirade, 45 sqm, No. 72, 384€ per night with breakfast & half a bottle of Champagne). It had a nice sea view and a generous layout, but I found it cheaply built. And it was musty, especially the bathroom, which would otherwise have been quite attractive.

Other facilities included a bar, a Michelin listed restaurant (details see below) and a spa. Breakfast was okay, as was the staff. In favor of L’Agapa must be mentioned that their pricing is reasonable. Plus, they replaced the Champagne in our room daily.

Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My husband and I felt comfortable at this elegant 19th century villa overlooking Sainte-Marine’s port. It is most probably the only bigh-end property in the area, especially if you value good reviews.

While the room we had was small and understated (Cottage, 25 sqm, No. 21, 384€ per night with breakfast), it was not a problem for us. Yet none of the 19 rooms at Villa Tri Men are large (opened in 2003, renovated in 2017/18). The bathroom at the cottage was quite spacious. Unfortunately, it had a slight moisture issue, but it was manageable. Plus, we had a nice outdoor area with a river view, as the only one of three cottages in total.

Onsite your find a bar and a Michelin starred dining spot (more info follows). And there is a second restaurant affiliated to the hotel down at the port (Michelin listed, details below). Staff is friendly and helpful, and a good breakfast is served here.

Our best restaurants in Brittany: my ranking

We dined at quite a number of fine-dining restaurants in Brittany on our nine-night stay. I will rank the dining spots we were in descending order of my fondness. And as longer this section goes, the shorter my recounting of the dining experience becomes. Frankly, none of the eateries – all listed in the Michelin guide – disappointed. Some showed weaknesses regarding the service or the concept, yet the food was always good or even excellent.

My No. 1 restaurant in Brittany: Les Trois Rochers Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My absolute favourite in terms of best restaurants in Brittany was the one-Michelin Les Trois Rochers in Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper. Here Frédéric Claquin has been in charge since 2003, awarded a Michelin star since 2016. He celebrates a creative seafood cuisine blended with spices from around the world. The setting is nice, a modernly furnished dining room with picture windows to view the beautiful port scenery.

Three tasting menus are on offer: 3-course 67€ (weekdays only), 4-course 99€ and 6-course 142€. We opted for the whole shebang as we celebrated my birthday. And it was a delectable culinary journey from A to Z, delivered by competent and warm staff.

My No. 2 dining spot in Brittany: La Table de mon Père Perros-Guirec

This Michelin listed place is the hotel restaurant of Castel Beau Site I mentioned above. My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous meal here in a contemporary-chic setting. And this with a stunning view of the St. Guirec Beach.

At work here is Nicolas Le Luyer, a true Breton. He has featured a modern cuisine and has showcased local produce since 2013. On offer at La Table de mon Père is a 3-course menu of the moment for 59€. Furthermore, there are two tasting menus, 4/6 courses for 89/109€. And you can also order à la carte, what we did. As a main course, we had pork filet in unison with local sea snails (42€), which was a delight! The standard of service was pretty good, although not completely faultless.

My No. 3 eatery in Brittany: Éclosion in Quimper

This is an urban gourmet restaurant at its best! Éclosion, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand, was a real find for us. Not only got we contemporary food with a foreign twist at moderate prices, but also the service was very persuasive. Marion Pelletan is responsible for the dining-room, and this with lots of competence and and passion.

Thibault Le Goff in in charge of the open kitchen. And they have been doing this since early 2023. The menu includes three starters, mains and desserts each, from which you can compose a 3-/4-course menu (38€/45€). The setting is nice, modern and inviting at the same time. A must-do restaurant in case you come to Quimper!

My No. 4 restaurant in Brittany: Pourquoi Pas in Dinard

Pourquoi Pas is the “hotel restaurant” at the five-star Castelbrac. It has been holding a Michelin star since 2019, and this under the lead of  Julien Hennote. He is Breton yet a well travelled one. In the kitchen, he favors local produce and sustainable coastal fishing. You get here a 4-/6-/8-course menu (80/100/120€). On our dinner here, we had a lobster menu. It included six dishes, which were all inventive and well-made, though we found the main special. It was a lobster tail on sausage slices, which we considered a strange pairing. Yet the desserts were fantastic. And we also got a goodie, a financier with algae. This may sound awkward, but it was very tasty! Had it not been for the the somewhat awkward main dish, this dining spot would have topped our ranking of best restaurants in Brittany.

Service was good as was the ambiance at this elegant and stylish dining spot with its wonderful view of the Saint-Malo Bay.

My No. 5 to 8 dining spots in Brittany

Two more Dinard dining spots follow in my ranking of best restaurants in Brittany, both Michelin listed. This is about Ombelle and Didier Méril. While the former is modern and casual,

the latter is traditional and elegant, yet both with sea view.

Whereas Ombelle is reasonably priced, Didier Méril seems rather pricy for the area. Staff at both establishments left a mixed impression. However, the two of them offered quite a good food experience.

No. 7 is Le Bélouga in Perros-Guirec and No. 8 Bistrot du Bac in Sainte-Marine/Combrit, both included in the Michelin guide. The former is a hotel restaurant with a great sea view yet with quite a chilly atmosphere.

The service was so-so, however the food was persuasive (bistronomic and moderately priced, especially on Sunday and Monday).

The latter is a hotel restaurant too, but not your typical one. Instead, it is a real bistro

with fresh and simple seafood dishes (sole was great).

And the setting on a small port is lovely.

Looking back and forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & III)

This very post went into the centerpiece of our North and Central France trip, the Brittany. To summarize, part one (last blogpost) was about our way from Switzerland to the Brittany. It went to the Champagne first, followed by the Normandy. Soon on my blog, you will find part three (the last of this mini-series), highlighting the route we took when returning home from the Brittany. We did so via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

A long held plan came true in late summer 2024, when my husband and I set off on an extended journey through France. Not that we have not travelled our beautiful neighboring country in the recent past, but mostly for a few days only. This time we wanted to do a longer trip to France, and this by car. Its main focus should be the Brittany. As we started from northwestern Switzerland, this meant that we had to build in at least one stopover. And the same is true for the way back. So in the end, a 19-day voyage resulted. Before arriving in the Brittany, we made two stops (Champagne & Normandy). The return way lead via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal/Auvergne. As always when traveling, we kept an eye out for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on them. Here in this post it is about part one, an outline of the the whole journey and the route to Brittany, leading to the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy.

Before coming to our 19-day itinerary for North and Central France in style, there is something else. It concerns the sort of content you may expect in this context.

What is next about the North & Central France journey in the time to come?

Actually, I wanted to provide quite a number of blogposts about our extended trip through France’s north and center. And they should follow right after this one outlining our itinerary. I used to to do this on my blog for many voyages in the past. This time, it will be a little bit different. This is because my husband and I already did another longer road trip in the meantime. It went to the Peloponnese and Athens in Greece. So, I want to keep my France travel recount shorter. That means to focus on the essentials such as what to do and where do go for best hotels and restaurants (part one: Champagne & Honfleur). I might pick out one or another topic and dwell on it later. Yet this would be after letting you know about our Greece journey just in the way I do it here for the North and Central France. It makes no sense for me to always fall behind with my trip reporting. And the next voyage is already approaching!

19 days on the road from Switzerland to Brittany and back with several before-and-after stops

It was not the first Brittany trip that my husband and I undertook this late summer. Back in the 90s, we already spent two weeks in the area. So, we decided to leave away most places that we went to at the time. This is true for some of the most visited spots too, Mont-Saint-Michel or Pointe du Raz. Notwithstanding, there are more than enough things to do. Here is my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

As mentioned, the journey’s first stop was in the Champagne region where we stayed in Épernay. From here, we continued to Honfleur in Normandy. Next was the first of three stays in Brittany. It took place in Dinard. Perros-Guirec, another town on France’s north coast followed. Then, we moved on to the country’s west coast, to Sainte-Marine/Combrit close to Quimper.

After leaving Brittany, we headed further south to Cognac, where the famous spirit of the same name comes from, a type of brandy made of grapes. The next stop was in the Dordogne (Vitrac), also known under its old name of Périgord. From here, we drove on to the Cantal department, which is located in the heart of France. Here we lodged at Chaudes-Aigues. Originally, we had planned one more stop in the French Jura. Yet we cancelled it at the last moment and directly returned to Switzerland from Cantal, which was quite a stretch to drive.

Now to some information about the individual stops on our North and Central France itinerary. This includes things to do with a couple of walking suggestions. And you learn about where to go for staying and dining in style. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in three parts. I start in this blogpost with part one, the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy (best activities, hotels and restaurants). The next one will be about the Brittany and the third part about Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal.

From place to place in North & Central France, part I, Champagne & Normandy (best activities, hotels & restaurants)

1. Champagne Épernay

About the Champagne

Champagne is undoubtedly France’s most famous fizz, if not the world’s! This wine-making region is on Paris’ northeast side, with the towns of Reims and Épernay often used as a visitors’ base. For sure, you want to visit a Champagne House when being in the area, so book your slot in advance. If the question should arise which one to choose, this is difficult because there are numerous! My husband and I visited the biodynamic Leclerc Briant Champagne House because we stayed at their hotel, a family house in the middle of Épernay (see below).

While Reims is a bigger town (population of about 180,000), Épernay is much smaller (22,000 inhabitants). Both have their charms. Reims boasts a nice old town and a splendid cathedral. The special feature of Épernay is the Avenue de Champagne. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015. Here one Champagner House comes after another. And attached to them are bars and restaurants where you can taste the Houses’ finest cuvées, sometimes paired with culinary delicacies.

Our hotel: Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant Épernay

For our two-day stay in the Champagne, my husband and I chose Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant (Champagne House), opened in 2019. With its five rooms only, this former 18th century family home makes for an intimate stay. As it is located on the prestigious Avenue de Champagne, this luxury guest house comes with a Champagne shop and a terrace to try the House’s cuvées.

As to its interiors, it is a mix between old and new. Each room is different from each other. We opted for Room No. 3, which I personally find the best as it overlooks the (quiet) rear of the house with the garden. It is spacious (47 sqm), with a lovely seating area and quite a large bathroom.

And Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant is a heaven for Champagne lovers! Not only were we treated a small bottle of their exquisite Champagne and cookies in our room, but we also got a glass of it every morning at breakfast! The room rate per night was 425€ (with breakfast), which we found adequate. A delightful little breakfast was included, prepared on site (behind the bar) by friendly staff.

Our restaurants: Bulles & Bonheur and Symbiose, both in Épernay

a) Bulles & Bonheur Épernay

I really wanted to have a dinner with a Champagne pairing and came across the Champagne producer of Élodie D. This is about a female wine growing business in the fourth generation. As to their restaurant, two tasting menus are on offer. The five-course Menu Élodie (wine grower) amounts to 70€ without and to 130€ with the Champagne pairing (5 glasses). Menu Fabrice (her husband), which we had, includes seven courses and costs 110€. Together with the Champagne pairing (five glasses) the total expense is 200€. As to the food, you get here immaculately prepared modern French cuisine, nicely presented, in pleasant surroundings.

Fabrice was present on our dinner and this together with a fifth generation member, the couple’s lovely daughter. She helped out with the service although being only about ten years old. And she did a good job just as the rest of the staff! In terms of Champagne, you get different cuvées of the Champagne Élodie D. and also old vintages of the Champagne Desbordes-Amiaud. We liked both of them, although the latter is a Champagne of a different kind. We found that it almost tasted like a port wine.

b) Symbiose Épernay

Symbiose is a small eatery in Épernay’s town center where Maxine Moret (chef) and his wife Justine (host) are in charge. On offer is a contemporary cuisine (Michelin listed). Although Justine was not present 0n our evening, we felt well cared for on our dinner. The modernly styled dining room feels pleasant.

In terms of food, there are three starters, two mains, cheese and two dessert available. Out of this offer, you can compose two menus (4-/5-course at 54/70€) or order à la carte. Everything we got – we opted for the 4-course version – was great! I liked it that the cuisine was not only modern but also light. Maybe the service was a bit slow-paced, but I think the chef was alone in the kitchen.

2. Honfleur Normandy

About Normandy

Normandy has lots to offer as to things to do. Its most popular attraction is of course the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Although it is overrun by tourists, it is worth visiting. Another must-do is exploring the different landscapes along the Alabaster Coast. There is the GR21 hiking trail running all the way from Le Havre to Le Tréport. Its most beautiful part is probably around Étretat with its beautiful cliffs – unfortunately overtouristed too. And if you are a history buff, the D-day beaches might be your thing.

As my husband and I already visited the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay and Étretat on our first trip to Normandy, we limited ourselves on discovering Honfleur a bit more. We did so by making a hike around Honfleur, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

As to Honfleur, we already knew it. Therefore, we expected lots of tourists here. It was exactly like that, but understandable. The historic multi-store houses packed tight to each other around the Vieux Bassin (port) make a beautiful picture.

Yet a few steps further, and you are away from the masses!

Our hotel: Saint-Delis Honfleur 

Our hotel in Honfleur was Hotel Saint-Delis, opened 2020 in a 17th century former family home.

It is located in a beautiful residential neighborhood, very close to the town center.With its nine rooms only, this Relais & Châteaux property is very boutique. The elegantly furnished rooms come with steam showers and overlook a splendid garden.

We had booked a Deluxe Room (31 sqm, 599€ with breakfast per night), yet were upgraded to a Junior Suite (40 sqm). It was a duplex with ample space, which we liked (No 5). And this despite the fact that the A/C was a bit suboptimal.

You find no restaurant on site but there is a bar for hotel guests only. Here you get a lovely breakfast and snacks throughout the day, served by friendly and helpful staff.

Our restaurants: Huître Brûlée & Le Bréard, both in Honfleur

a) Huître Brûlée Honfleur

At the Michelin listed Huître Brûlée you get oysters – as its name suggests! But we chose other items from the small à la carte, which is reasonably priced. The cuisine at this lively, casual place is modern.

And and you get also lighter and healthy choices. At the helm at Huître Brûlée is a younger couple, Paul Lacheray in the kitchen and his partner, Chloé Woestelandt, in the dining room. Even though the staff was busy on our visit, it was cordial. We liked what we had for starters (all around 15€) and mains (from 22 to 30€). Instead of  going for cheese (5€), my husband and I had two desserts (10€ each). Yet the latter was too much, as especially the chocolate dessert was quite heavy (one dessert is probably sufficient).

b) Le Bréard Honfleur

This Michelin dining spot is the more sophisticated choice compared to its above mentioned competitor. What they have in common, is the modern food. Yet the decor here is chicer, the service more polished and the cuisine a touch more refined.

A younger couple is in charge as well, Fabrice Sébire in the kitchen and his wife Karine in the dining room (since 2004). On our evening, we could have a seat outdoors in the lovely courtyard. From the three menus (with options), we chose the middle (3-course menu 45€, 4-course menu 60€, 6-course menu 70€).

The service was professional and attentive. We found that Karine had an open eye for subtleties that others might overlook. And there were no issues with the pricing, which we considered as fair.

Looking forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part II & III)

That was the first part of a North and Central France trip my husband and I undertook lately. It showcased the itinerary from Switzerland – where we come from – to the Brittany. This is about the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy, and I go into the best activities, hotels and restaurants here. The Brittany is the main focus of our journey and I deal with it in part two. Part three finally is about the return way, going from the Brittany via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal back to Switzerland.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – outline & PART I way to Brittany from Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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There is no question that the main draw in Stresa is the visit to the Borromean Islands. Each of them has its own distinctive character and all three are only a quick boat ride away from Stresa. Yet there is more to do around this north Italian town not far from Switzerland. Find in the following some of the best activities around Stresa. Its location on Lake Maggiore, Italy’s second largest, contributes to the diversity of attractions. It is about sightseeing yet also about walking. While Stresa itself is not a large town, there are many more nearby worthwhile to be explored. And you can reach them not only by car but also by train and by boat. The latter due to the fact that most towns are situated directly on the lake.

Unfortunately, my husband and I only stayed four nights in Stresa, which was not nearly long enough to cover all the interesting activities here. So, I will not only report on what we did, but also provide a bucket list for more things to do. If you want to know about the town of Stresa, oozing lots of old-word charm, I wrote a short chapter about in my last post. Now to some of the best activities here. I start with walking/hiking and continue with other things to do.

3 of the best walks/hikes around Stresa

Before coming to three easy to moderate walks/hikes around Stresa, first a recommendation for a leisure stroll in town. As most other lakeside towns in Italy, Stresa features a lungolago. This translates into a lakeside promenade. You could start your passeggiata (afternoon stroll) either southeast or northwest from the town center. I lean towards the first, where you begin southeast from the ferry dock. The journey takes you past a couples of cafes and stately turn-of-the-century buildings. Furthermore, the 2 km (1.3 mi)-long lakeside promenade has lots of statues, fountains and flower beds. And always when gazing out on the lake, there is the beautiful Isola Bella too. To get started, make this easy activity as one of your first in Stresa to get your bearings!

Now to some more serious walks/hikes in the Stresa region. I start with the shortest one and end with one that I have not yet done.

1. Out and back around Villa Taranto in Verbania (easy walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive (only one way – back – without botanical garden – Villa Taranto)

Pallanza – Via Vittorio Veneto – Villa Taranto – Via Vittorio Veneto – Pallanza

Duration: about 2 – 3 hours / Length: about  5.8 km (3.6 mi) / Ascent/Descent: less than 100 m (328 ft)

My husband and I wanted to combine the visit of the Villa Taranto botanical garden with a lakeside walk. So, this is basically another lungolago walk (just as the one mentioned above in Stresa) plus a stroll to criss cross Verbania’s beautiful botanical garden.

Tour description

We decided to start the walk in Verbania’s neighboring town, Pallanza. And we found that this place also has a remarkable historic center by the lake.

While the first part of the walk is along a street with moderate traffic, this is not for long. That is because the street quickly turns into some sort of shared bicycle and footpath with almost no cars around. It is along the lake with the one or other pretty turn-of-the-century building and splendid views over the water.

En route, a short stop at Parco di Villa Giulia

is worthwhile before continuing to Villa Taranto,

the actual destination of the the walk. Here, you can easily spend one to two hours to take in the botanical garden’s highlights. It features 7 km (4.3 mi) of paths with thousands of species of trees and flowers from all over the world. The way back to your starting point in Pallanza is the same you came.

2. Loop around Lake Mergozzo in Verbania (easy to moderate walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Montorfano – Mergozzo – Montorfano

Duration: 2 – 3 hours / Length: 8 km (5 mi) – Ascent/Descent: 242 m (794 ft)

Lake Mergozzo is a small but charming lake, 15 minutes by car away from Stresa. It actually was the westernmost part of Lake Maggiore, some centuries ago. Nowadays, it is one of Italy’s cleanest lakes and barred to motorboats. You find here also the pretty town of Mergozzo.

Not only has it a lovely lakeside setting, but also a nice historic center. The tour I am going to describe is a circumnavigation of this lake, as I think one of the best activities around Stresa. And the town of Mergozzo, marking the halfway point, merits a visit by itself.

Tour description

The walk starts at a small beach called Spiaggia La Rustica, which is by the way a really nice bathing place.

Right before reaching it, there is a small number of parking spaces. Alternatively, you can leave your car at the nearby train station of Verbania Pallanza (so you can arrive by train too). The trail first leads through a wooded area

before coming to a campground, which you are allowed to traverse. Once done, there is a short stretch along the main road before you reach a trail up into the wood. Alternatively, you also could continue along the road. In the former case, the trail descends to the main road shortly before Mergozzo. Soon, you reach the town’s lungolago (lakeside promenade).

Be sure to check out this lovely town before taking up your way back to your start.

This time, you walk along an ancient mule track, which is mostly cobblestoned.

Shortly before the end of the walk, you come to an asphalt road. Turn left downhill to reach your starting point. You could also proceed uphill to get a look at Montorfano. This is a peaceful settlement with the remarkable Romanesque church of San Giovanni Battista.

Apparently, there is also a worthwhile viewpoint of Lake Maggiore a bit further up, but we missed it.

3. One way from Stresa to Belgirate via the Chestnut Trail (easy to moderate walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive (not done)

Stresa – Villa Pallavicino – Passera – Belgirate (back by boat or train)

Duration: 2 – 3 hours / Length: 7.8 km (4.8 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 283 m (929 ft)

As I have not done this trail yet I cannot share insights from personal experience. But I saw it mentioned often on the internet, so I concluded it must be worthwhile doing. The Chestnut Trail connects Stresa with Belgirate via an ancient mule track, which is further up the hill. Yet it does not require a steep hike up. The trailhead to this path is even marked on Google Map (Inizio Sentiero dei Castagni Stresa). It is close to Parco Pallvicino (see below). Once arrived in Belgirate you can take the boat or the train to return to Stresa. I will not offer a tour description as I have not walked the trail.

After elaborating on walks in the Stresa area, now to less strenuous activities here.

Some of the best activities around Stresa

I start with a sight in the town of Stresa before going into the most popular thing to do in the area, just off the coast of Stresa. Of course, it is about the Borromean Islands.

1. Parco Pallavicino in Stresa

This is about the Villa Pallavicino, located on the outskirts of Stresa towards Belgirate. I have not been here yet, so the information provided is based on “hearsay”. You need about ten minutes by foot from Stresa’s ferry to reach Parco Pallavicino. The property was purchased by the Pallavicino family back in 1862, who transformed the simple dwelling standing here into a splendid neoclassical-style villa. They did this complete with creating a gorgeous park full of diverse plants and statues. In 1952 finally, Marquise Luisa, began to welcome animals from all over the world. And in 1956, the Pallavicino family transformed their estate into a zoo open to the public.

Nowadays, the park is home to over 50 species of animals, including zebras, wallabies or also native deer. In addition, there are a cafe and playground. The villa however is not open to the public. For sure, visiting Parco Pallavicino is one of the best activities in Stresa when traveling with kids.

2. The Borromean Islands, off the coast of Stresa

About the Borromean Islands

A boat trip to the Borromean Islands is a must-do activity when being in Stresa, also known as the “Eden of Italy”! It is about three idyllic islands: Isola Bella, the most notable, Isola Madre, the most peaceful, and Isola dei Pescatori, the busiest.

It is possible to visit all three islands by boat from Stresa’s ferry in one day. In case you can only go to one of them, choose Isola Bella, the masterpiece of the trio.

If you wish to omit one, I would leave out Isola dei Pescatori.

While they say you find here an old fishing village, unchanged by time, my husband and I judge it differently. We encountered mainly an island with only restaurants and souvenir shops.

About the Borromeo family

Now to what is behind the Borromean Islands. Originally, they were home to the aristocratic Borromeo family. They were merchants in San Miniato near Florence around 1300 and became bankers in Milan after 1370. Between the 14th and 17th century they were able to gain control of an “almost state” in the Valdossola/Lake Maggiore area within the Duchy of Milan. This “Borromeo’s State” ended in 1797 with Napoleon Bonaparte’s invasion. However, the family could keep their ample estates, one of them the Borromean Islands. And they still own the majority of them (Bella and Madre).

How to visit the Borromean Islands

When it comes to how to visit the Borromean Islands, I would suggest using Navigazione del Lago Maggiore (NLM), the official Italian state owned company. This because their boats run frequently and this also into the afternoon. Usually, in shoulder and high season, you have to wait not more than half an hour until a boat arrives (on a hop-on hop-off basis). You can buy tickets online or onsite inside the ferry building, either right before your trip or earlier (we bought them the previous day).

My favorite Borromeon Islands, Isola Bella & Isola Madre

Now some short words to Isola Bella and Isola Madre, my two favorites among the Borromean Islands. The former draws more people than the latter. And I already knew if from an earlier visit quite some years ago, undertaken from Ascona/Switzerland, which was quite a trip.

By no doubt, Isola Bella is the chef d’oeuvre of this trio.

There are a palace and a garden (one entrance fee for both) brought together in the form of an imaginary ship (Palazzo Borromeo). Originally, Isola Bella – named after Isabella, countess Borromeo – mostly was an empty rock. Vast quantities of soil were brought in to build a system of ten terraces for the garden. The unfinished building displays paintings and tapestries.

Isola Madre, the largest of the three islands, is also noted for its gardens.

They are kept as an English-style botanic garden with lots of rare plants and exotic flowers.

Yet the (uninhabited) palace is quite a sight too. It is beautifully decorated with 16th to 19th century Italian masterpieces and paintings.

After going into Stresa’s main sights, there is much more to do a bit further away.

3. Verbania with Villa Taranto and Villa Giulia

Verbania is the largest town on the lake and from what I heard – I have not been to the town center – not overrun by tourists.

As all the other lakeside towns on Lake Maggiore, it has its lungolago (lakeside promenade). Plus, there are the botanical garden of Villa Taranto and the country house of Villa Giulia (see above walk No 1). While the former persuades with its 3,000 plants from all over the world (villa is closed to the public), the latter can be visited on the occasion of exhibitions and other events.

4. Town hopping from Stresa

Apart from Verbania there are more towns you should not miss, so town hopping from Stresa is a recommended activity when staying here. And many can be reached both by boat and train. Unfortunately, my husband and I had only time to visit one of these places worthwhile seeing. It is about Sesto Calende,

where we stopped on our transfer from Alba to Stresa. It is right at the bottom of the lake, a pretty town where Lake Maggiore becomes the river Ticino. Not only boasts it an attractive historic center but there are also great lidos and lots of opportunities to walk along the water.

Further up the lake in the direction of Stresa, you come across Arona. It seems to be a quaint medieval town. You find here the bronze statue of Saint Carlo Borromeo (see above section about the Borromeo family), overlooking the town. Saint Carlo was the patriarch of the Borromeo presence in the area.

Right across the lake is Rocca di Angera, the Borromeo family’s imposing fortress. It is an impressive accumulation of five different constructions, built between the 11th and 17 the centuries. It is home of the 12-room Museo della Bambola with the Borromeo family’s collection of dolls. Plus, you can visit the vineyards that surround the fortress.

Another impressive sight is Santa Caterina del Sasso, a monastery located less than half an hour by car north from Rocca di Angera. The three buildings from the 13th and 14th centuries cling spectacularly to the steep rocky precipice. If you come by car, you either climb down more than 200 steps or use the lift (for a fee). When arriving by boat, you have to ascend 80 steps from the ferry quai.

Looking back at my Piedmont mini-series

This very post about what to do around Stresa is the last of seven posts concerning a Piedmont trip that my husband and I recently undertook. Before, I wrote about the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around this town on the Lake Maggiore in the Piedmont’s north. And the first blogpost gave details to the top luxury accommodation in this area close to Switzerland, Boutique Hotel Stresa.

I covered exactly the same three topics for another Piedmont region further south, the wine region around Alba (where to stay and dine in style and what to do). All this was introduced by a 11-day Piedmont itinerary that included not only the area around Alba and Stresa but also two stopovers. One of those was in Caluso, north of Turin, the other in the Swiss west.

Date of stay: July 2024

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The Langhe region around Alba is one of the Piedmont’s most beautiful areas. It is worthwhile going to not only when being into wine and truffles but also when you like beautiful landscapes. Think in this context of delicate rolling hills covered with vineyards and dotted with picturesque villages. There is a bunch of activities to do in the Langhe. This region is ideal if you want to do some walking in the vines and/or village hopping. Some of the most stunning small towns in Italy can be found here. And if you plan it wisely, you even can combine these two things. But be advised, some walking up and down is almost always part of the program. Yet I think that I have found some really great tours that are not too strenuous. Truth to be told, I myself am not exactly a “mountain goat”.

Before I go into the activities, a few lines to the Langhe.

Langhe, Piedmont’s most stunning wine region

Chances are good that you know the Piedmont, one of 20 regions in Italy. It is located in the country’s northwest and is famous for its quality wine. As to the Langhe, it is one of the Piedmont’s sub regions around Alba. You find here a hilly landscape full of vineyards, situated a bit more to the Piedmont’s southwest.

The Langhe has been on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 2014. This together with Roero and Monferrato and because of their cultural landscape. They got this honor owing to their wine growing tradition, which also has an aesthetic value. That makes the Langhe such a splendid place to go for travelers who appreciate this kind of rural settings. And they grow some of the best Italy’s here, think in this context of Barolo or Barbaresco.

My husband and I have been to the Langhe twice in three years. While we lodged in Alba’s east last time, we chose its south instead on our recent stay. And both areas are gorgeous, although the latter even more so, in my opinion. Maybe also check out my post at the time about things to do more in Alba’s east. I informed on two easy walks, two stunning villages and a memorable truffle hunt. One of the villages I wrote about at this point of time – Monforte d’Alba – will also be a topic in the current post.

In terms of activities in the Langhe, I start with three easy to moderate walks before going into some of the most beautiful villages in the area.

3 of the best loop walks/hikes in the Langhe

I already mentioned it, you cannot entirely avoid going up and down when walking in the Langhe. But after some research, I think I have found three walks/hikes that are doable for persons with a decent physical fitness. I will indicate the difficulty level  of all tours. And as I have tracked all of them on Outdooractive, you can navigate them on this hiking app with my correspondent links.

1. Loop around Monforte d’Alba (moderate to difficult walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Monforte d’Alba – Serralunga d’Alba – Perno – Monforte d’Alba

Duration: 3 – 4 hours / Length: 13.9 km (8.6 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 534 m (1,752 ft)

This is my favorite among all the tours I have ever done in the Langhe. This because of all the beautiful views you have most of the time when doing this activity. In addition, Serralunga d’Alba is a lovely village well worth exploring (see below under 5 of the most beautiful villages in the Langhe). Plus, we were practically on our own the whole tour (no other hikers around).

Tour description

The walk starts in Monforte d’Alba, and this in the town center. From here you walk to the top of the old town, around Castello di Monforte – Palazzo Scarampi. This village is one of Italy’s most beautiful ones, according to I Borghi più belli d’Italy (The most beautiful Villages in Italy). If you want to know more about it, I have provided some information in an earlier post. And I also included this place in the chapter about beautiful villages further below.

Not long after leaving the village, you already can enjoy beautiful views of vineyards. And far away, you catch sight of the first village you are going to reach, Serralunga d’Alba.

But first you have to manage the first of two descents – it goes down 300 m (984 ft). And try not to think of the fact that you have to climb up this difference in altitude later on.

Before you ascend towards Serralunga d’Alba, you cross a hazelnut orchard.

And once arrived in this village, make a rest and explore this stunning place.

Then continue in the direction of Perno.

In case you have enough force and time left for some more village discovering, go ahead – we did not. Instead we tackled the ascent towards Monforte d’Alba. It is less steep than the ascent at the start, yet you need some more time to do it.

2. Loop around Barolo (easy walk)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Duration: 1¾ – 2  hours / Length: 6.9 km (4.3 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 202 m (656 ft)

After exploring the gorgeous village of Barolo in the Langhe, an easy walk in its vineyards is a nice activity to do as well.

Tour description

Barolo also belongs to the above mentioned most beautiful villages in Italy. So, you absolutely should roam about it before taking off to your tour.

Right in the town center you follow a street that brings you to the village’s vineyards. The first part of the trail is a bit above the main road, yet most time leading through the vineyards. While you can hear the traffic noise, it was not too bad on our walk (not too busy).

Roughly half way there, you cross the main road. Now you are in for the more remote part of the trail, leading back to Barolo. Shortly before reaching this village again, there is quite a steep descent towards the town center.

3. Loop around Treiso (moderate walk)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Duration: 2 – 2½ hours / Length: 7.3 km (4.5 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 308m (1,011 ft)

This walk is not in Alba’s south as all the other activities/places I am going into this post. Instead it is on the east side of this regional capital. While it is also a Langhe wine region, it is a bit less hilly and less memorable as the one from the before mentioned walks.

Tour description

You begin the walk in Treiso’s town center.

First, you descend through a vineyard and then along a creek in a forested area. Before coming to a hamlet, you move towards the opposite hill where you make an ascent.

Once done, you continue along the ridge back in the direction of Treiso.

Just before reaching the village again, you can either follow the vineyard trail or the main road (Via Alba). We did the former. While this was pleasant at the beginning, shortly before Treiso we had to climb a very steep “path” (not really one) through the vineyards. And this was rather a pain to do. So, think twice before following our example!

Now it is about village hopping in Alba’s south.

6 of the most beautiful villages in the Langhe

I have already mentioned the I Borghi più belli di’Italia, the association of the most beautiful villages in Italy. It was founded in 2002 within the ANCI Tourism Council. This with the aim of promoting the country’s great heritage in terms of history, art, culture and landscapes. And this as far as villages are concerned. At the moment, the Piedmont has 18 villages that made it into this list.

So far in this post, I brought up two such villages. On the one hand, this was Monforte d’Alba (for more details refer to a past post on the Langhe). On the other hand, I named Barolo. In the post I just mentioned I went into a third one too, Neive (here are the specifics about it). Yet, on our trip we encountered three more gorgeous small towns in the Langhe which are not part of this association. I previously wrote about Serralunga d’Alba. And I have two more, La Morra and Montelupo Albese. So, there are many activities related to village hopping in the Langhe.

Now to the villages in question. All of them are in Alba’s south with the exception of Neive.

1. Monforte d’Alba (part of I Borghi più belli di’Italia)

As you have learnt by now, I previously went into Monforte d’Alba (my post). So, find here only one short remark to it. Do no miss walking up from the main piazza (Umberto I) to the old town’s highest point, the Piazza Antica Chiesa. This is really a rewarding thing to do!

2. Barolo (part of I Borghi più belli di’Italia)

When getting to this medieval village on a cloudy day in early summer, my husband and I thought that it was astonishingly uncrowded. Make your way along Barolo’s cobblestone lanes toward the ancient castle. It used to be a defensive fortress and later on a country home for the wealthy Falletti family. Today it houses the Barolo Wine Museum. Maybe also visit an enoteca for a wine tasting. After all, the Barolo wine is the most esteemed of all Italian wines!

3. Neive (part of I Borghi più belli di’Italia)

Neive is in Alba’s northeast, about 15 minutes by car north of Treiso (see above, loop No. 3). As this village was the topic of another post just as Monforte d’Alba, only one small note on it. The best thing to do here is to walk from its south gate (San Rocco) to the one in the north (San Sebastiano).

4. Serralunga d’Alba

Serralunga d’Alba, which we discovered while doing above described walk No. 1, is a sleepy village. You find here medieval streets extending from a slim brick castle with tall watchtowers. It was never used for military purposes but instead was owned by the Falletti family – as the one in Barolo. You can visit it on certain days, check it out in advance in case you are interested (Castello di Serralunga d’Alba).

Otherwise just wander the streets, drink in the fantastic views you have from here of the surrounding landscape and maybe taste some wine.

5. La Morra

La Morra is the place to go to get an overview of the region. And this is because this village is atop a ridge. From Piazza Castello, the town’s main square, you have truly fabulous views of the area. The panorama stretches from vineyard-striped valleys to faraway villages and – weather permitting – snow-capped Alps.

Yet also stroll along the streets of the pretty old town. And of course, a visit to a wine shop is also possible here.

6. Montelupo Albese

This handsome village is far off the beaten tourist paths. And my husband and I only landed here because of its proximity to the hotel we stayed (Hotel Casa di Langa). It is something like the little sister of La Morra as it is also perched on a crest. Its views are also impressive, yet not that expansive and not of the known wine villages but of Alba.

What I liked here was the quietude of this village, which probably does not draw many visitors. All the better, so you have the picturesque medieval streets to yourself. An interesting fact here is also the project “Lupus in Fabula”. As the name of the village means wolf mountain, Montelupo Albese has invited artists from all over Italy to tell all the fairy tales about wolves through murals.

Looking back and forward

My mini series about a Piedmont journey has two parts. One is about the Langhe wine region around Alba, the second concerns Stresa on the Lake Maggiore, in the north near Switzerland. In this last post of part one informed about things to do near Alba. Before, I already went into (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants and a luxury hotel in the area. The start of my Piemont reporting made a 11-day itinerary of the whole trip – three stops in the Piedmont and one in the Swiss west.

In the time to come, you will find the same for part two of the voyage in Stresa (best luxury hotel, best fine-dining restaurants and what to do). You will learn about where to stay and dine in style as well as what to do in and around this town on the Lake Maggiore, especially if you like walking.

Date of stay: July 2024

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Chile is full of natural wonders, and the Atacama Desert, the driest on Earth, is one of them. In contrast to the country’s most popular natural highlight, South Patagonia with Torres del Paine National Park (my post), it is not so overflown by travelers. If you explore the area in an “anticyclical” way, you can avoid most daytrippers. This allows you to have the sights – think of bizarre rock formations, lagoons with flamingos or geysers, and this all against the backdrop of the Andes  – to yourself. And if look for the best luxury hotel in the Atacama Desert, there is no way around the Awasi Hotel.

First, I give you a short overview of upscale lodging in the Atacama Desert, and then go into much detail of staying at Awasi Atacama.

Overview luxury hotels in the Atacama Desert

The best place to enjoy the Atacama Desert is from San Pedro de Atacama, a desert oasis a one and a half-hour drive from Calama.

This small town looks like one from an old western with adobe buildings and dusty dirt streets. It is situated at 2,450 m (8,036 ft) above sea level. Here you have the choice between four high-end properties.

I start with the pioneer in terms of top end accommodation in the Atacama Desert, followed by more recent additions. All the lodging expect the Nayara Alto is only available on an all-inclusive basis.

1. Explora Atacama

Explora has set the standard for high-end lodging here since 1998. It is located on the outskirts of San Pedro with views of the “volcano land” on the horizon. There is usually a minimum stay here of three nights in the high season, which costs a little more than 2,000 US$ for two per night at the standard room (33 sqm, all-inclusive). As to the latter, it is comfortably enough yet not very luxurious, and there is no outdoor area. You find onsite 50 rooms. And excursions take place in small groups.

2. Awasi Atacama luxury hotel

The second provider in the luxury segment in the Atacama Desert – opened in early 2007 –  relies on another approach. Instead of views he offers a peaceful, intimate oasis in the interior of San Pedro. Each of the 12 traditional adobe huts, where the guest rooms are, is set away from the others. Already the entry-level accommodation offers much comfort and luxury (50 sqm). Every cottage comes with its own private guide. If you want to stay here you have to do so for at least three nights and have to spend a bit more than 2,000 US$ for two per night. Said that you have to be lucky to get one of the two Round Rooms. Otherwise, you have to opt for the more expensive option that is going to cost you a little more than 3,000 US$ for two per night (all-inclusive).

3. Tierra Atacama

The next luxury hotel on an all-inclusive basis followed a short time later, in early 2008. And it focuses as the Explora property on views. The accommodations are more numerous than at Awasi (32 units) yet fewer than at Explora. And the minimum stay in the high season is shorter than at its competitors (two nights). As to the location, it is just outside of San Pedro. And the rooms are quite luxurious in a minimalistic style and come with their own private terrace. To become a guest here you have to fork out a bit less than 2,000 US$ for two in the high season for the standard room (35 sqm). The explorations are carried out in small groups.

4. Nayara Alto Atacama

The fourth in this quartet has been on the market since late 2020, and this at an already existing hotel. It is slightly further away from San Pedro than the other high-end accommodations in the area. The Nayara Alto is set in a tranquil valley and boasts great views of the desert’s scenery. Its 42 rooms are spacious – even the standard room measures 50 sqm. They are traditionally furnished with modern amenities and have a private terrace. This “newbie” stands out from the competition because of the offered flexibility. There is no minimum stay and you can choose between several meal/activity plans. You can either opt for bed and breakfast only (905 US$), half board (1,165 US$), full board (1,425 US$), all-inclusive with shared explorations (1,580 US$) and with private guide (2,180 US$). All rates apply for the standard room in the high season for two (February 2024).

As you know by now, my husband and I went for Awasi Atacama where we stayed four nights. Here how it was.

Staying in style at luxury Hotel Awasi Atacama

Spoiler alert: Awasi Atacama was as good as my husband and I had hoped for. After all, it had cost us a fortune. Unfortunately, the two less expensive Round Rooms were already fully booked, so we had to take one of the Superior Round Suites.

While we were not completely convinced of Tierra’s performance at their Patagonia branch (see my post), luckily that was different at Awasi Atacama. Although I cannot give judgement on how Tierra Atacama is – as I have not been there – , I suppose it does not differ much from its sister hotel in Patagonia. But of course, I cannot know for sure …

The Awasi Atacama’s back story

Ana Sainz de Vicuña Bemberg, a high-net-worth individual from Buenos Aires, had the dream of opening a hotel in the Atacama Desert. And when she happened to visit Matías de Cristóbal’s shop – Awasi’s current general manager – in Buenos Aires, where he was selling high-quality handicrafts just as hand-woven ponchos, she immediately knew that he was Mister Right for her undertaking. And the former banker seized the opportunity of building a new luxury adventure lodge.

Matías de Cristóbal has been in charge of the three Awasi properties (Atacama since 2007, Patagonia since 2013 and Iguazu since 2018) ever since, and this for almost 20 years now. He persuaded his boss to opt for an African safari-style approach in the Atacama Desert

(see more below under Ambiance). And he voted for a more personalized approach compared to its competitor (Explora). Matías de Cristóbal thinks that luxury travel is connected with scarce things. He firmly believes that discerning travelers do not want to share their precious time with others who not necessarily have the same goals. So he brought in private guides, a n0velty in the area.

Ambiance/Staff

Awasi means “at home” in the local (extinct) language of Kunza. And it almost feels so being in your adobe hut. It is set apart from the others, and once inside it, intimacy is guaranteed. This is also true when lingering in the very private patio.

A drawback at this luxury Atacama hotel may be that you have no views whatsoever. As a replacement, you are here a short walk from the town’s main square, which allows you to experience its “old Western” vibe.

When you leave the privacy of your cottage, the communal areas very much remind of a typical African lodge. There is an open restaurant as well as an open bar. And the most prominent spot takes a fire-pit that is lit for the evening chill. The ambiance is relaxed yet does not have the groove of an adult-summer-camp as other adventures lodges. Instead, it feels somewhat sophisticated.

Staff goes the extra mile to ensure that the guests have a comfortable and enjoyable stay. No wish is too much for them. They know what you want before you communicate your desire or need. And they also chat with you a bit when the right conditions present themselves.

Rooms

I have already mentioned one thing or another about the rooms. The entry-level unit is the Round Room (50 sqm) with a bathroom featuring a shower and a single sink. Plus, there is a private patio with outdoor shower (there are two such rooms only). Alternatively, you find ten Superior Round Suites at Awasi Atacama luxury hotel.

We had one of those – for lack of availability of the less expensive option. They are bigger (65 sqm) and have a huge bathroom with shower, double sinks and bathtub.

In addition, there is sizable private patio with an outdoor shower.

The more expensive room category also comes with a walk-in wardrobe, desk and a chaise lounge. The latter is oversized and comfortable, draped with soft, handwoven alpaca blankets. In the evening at turn down they give you a thoughtful little gift with local reference, which is a nice touch.

Restaurant/Bar

The three Awasi properties are Relais & Châteaux hotels, which usually stand for culinary delights. And the promise is definitely kept at Awasi Atacama. Chef Juan Pablo Mardones has helming the cuisine since the very beginning. And he offers a local dining experience yet with a modern twist. Whenever possible he sources from the region and cooks according to old recipes passed down from generations in the area, too. His repertoire also consists of Native American dishes from pre-Hispanic times.

My husband and I liked what we got, be at breakfast, lunch or dinner. As to the latter, there usually is a daily changing menu

(barbecue with life music on Saturdays).

You can choose from two starters, mains and desserts each. For lunch they offer an à la carte menu with five starters, mains and desserts each plus a variety of lighter dishes.

Breakfast is also à la carte, much appreciated by us, with great choices.

A highlight was the picnic that we had when doing the full-day excursion to the El Patio geysers.

The wines that accompanied the meals were mostly good as well, although they rather served less expensive ones. For the elevated rate we paid, we would have considered premium wines as appropriate. Drinks were fine, and of course the (female) barkeeper knows how to do an excellent Pisco Sour.

Other facilities

There is a small pool if you want to refresh yourself and relax a bit in between excursions. Spa treatments are available upon request.

Excursions at Awasi Atacama luxury hotel

The main event at Awasi Atacama are of course the excursions, which are all included in the room price. A private guide is allocated to you, in our case Manuel who was fabulous. Upon arrival, he advised us on all the possibilities for half and full day outings. Think of exploring the area on foot, by car, on horseback or by bike. Everything we did was interesting and enjoyable. The highlight was the excursion to El Tatio Geysers where we experienced not only lots of these hot springs releasing jets of steam and water

but also varied landscapes and wildlife.

And Manuel also served us the most delightful lunch, three courses prepared by the Awasi’s kitchen staff.

Overall luxury hotel Awasi Atacama

While staying at Awasi Atacama is a costly affair – especially if the two entry-level rooms are already occupied – , they offer a lot for the money. I am not sure if the high pricing is justified, but these seem to be the market prices for such kind of all-inclusive high-end lodging around here. At least you are in for luxury with adventure at Awasi Atacama, and this at small scale hotel in a very personalized way. The property is gorgeous – African safari-like – , the guest room are spacious and luxuriously appointed, the service is top notch and the food is exquisite. Plus, the excursions with your private guide are just great. There is one thing, you have to want to embrace the “shielded” huts without any views. This distinguishes Awasi from the competition, which offers splendid vistas of  the “volcano land”.

Looking back and forward in my Chile & Buenos Aires reporting

Now with this report about how it is lodging at Hotel Awasi Atacama, I am done with Chile as to luxury hotels in nature. My last blogpost was about the same thing in Patagonia (Hotel The Singular Patagonia and Hotel Tierra Patagonia). My next three posts will be about how it staying and dining in style in the Chilean cities of Santiago and Valparaiso as well as in Argentina’s capital of Buenos Aires.

If you should be interested in the 20-day itinerary of the Chile and Buenos Aires journey my husband and I did, check out my correspondent post that contains My Google Map. It informs about all the high-end hotels and fine dining restaurants we visited and the things we did in these three cities (including city tours). And all this comes with lots of photos.

Date of stay: November 2023

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Patagonia, shared between Chile and Argentina, at the southernmost point of South America, is a very special place. This windswept glacier country at the end of the world attracts more and more well-heeled travelers. So, you find here – in the Chilean part around the Torres del Paine National Park – high-end lodging too. It is not plentiful, often full, and the prices reflect the demand. While touring the area – see my itinerary post – , my husband and I stayed at two luxury hotels in Patagonia, at The Singular Patagonia and Tierra Patagonia.

Before going into the lodging experience at these two places, first an overview of all the upscale hotels in Chile’s Puerto Natales region. This is where the heart of Southern Patagonia is, around the Torres del Paine National Park.

Overview luxury hotels around Torres del Paine National Park Patagonia

There are four luxury hotels in the Torres del Paine National Park Patagonia area to choose from. I start with the one that is right inside the park and end with the one that is furthest away from it. All the accommodations expect The Singular only offer all-inclusive rates and require a minimum stay of three nights in the high season (November to February).

1. Explora Patagonia

This is the most favorably located high-end lodging of all as it is within the park. It is just by the Lake Pehoé, centrally situated for many activities. Staying here requires spending around 3,000 US$ for two per night (all-inclusive). This is in the high season for the standard room (28 sqm), which is simply furnished yet comfortable. The lodge was opened in 1993 and has 49 rooms. Explorations are carried out in small groups.

2. Tierra Patagonia

Tierra Patagonia is just outside the park boundaries by Lake Sarmiento with view of the Torres del Paine. From here to the park entrance you need about 20 minutes by car. They charge around 2,700 US$ for two per night (all-inclusive). And this is true in the high season for the standard room (33 sqm). Accommodations at Tierra are well appointed in a modern style. You find 40 of them at this hotel that was built in 2011. Excursions are available as part of small groups.

3. Awasi Patagonia luxury hotel

This luxury hotel is not far from Tierra Patagonia yet overlooks another part of Lake Sarmiento and the Torres del Paine. The drive to the park entrance lasts longer (45 minutes). This is the most upscale lodging of all and has a high price tag. You have to spend around 3,500 US$ for two per night (all-inclusive). Again that applies in the high season for the standard room. Having said that it is not your normal entry-level accommodation. Instead it is about a stand-alone building with 80 sqm space and offering every luxury. And there are only 14 units at the lodge that was opened in 2013. Plus, you have your own private guide for your explorations.

4. The Singular Patagonia luxury hotel

As mentioned, this is the hotel furthest away from the park. Actually, you need about one and half hour by car to the entrance. It is situated on the banks of the Ultima Esperanza Fiord in Puerto Bories, a few minutes by car away from Puerto Natales. In contrast to the other three lodging options, you can choose here from different rates and there is usually no minimum stay.

In the high season you pay around 900 US$ for two per night for the standard room (45 sqm) on a bed and breakfast basis. The accommodations are originally decorated with vintage and modern furniture, which gives them an eclectic feel. Alternatively, you can book the Half Board option (around 1,100 US$) or the Complete Experience (2,200 US$). In case you do not opt for the latter, you can book excursions separately (carried out in small groups). The Singular Patagonia, which is a former industrial space, was opened 2011 and has 57 rooms.

After this info to the high-end lodging around Patagonia’s most popular national park, now to the two luxury hotels I know from personal experience, The Singular Patagonia and Tierra Patagonia.

Staying in style at Hotel The Singular Patagonia

As I mentioned above, you have to drive quite a bit in order to get to the Torres del Paine National Park from here. And once inside the park, you need more time to reach the individual trail heads. So, The Singular Patagonia is not necessairly a substitute for the hotels in and just outside the park. Instead it may be rather suitable as a supplement for travelers on their way in or out of the park. This is especially true for the ones who want to do one or more full day hikes in the Torres del Paine National Park. On the other hand, the Singular Patagonia’s location is favorable if you want to be near the airport of Puerto Natales. This luxury hotel is only six minutes away from it.

The Singular Patagonia’s back story

The Singular Patagonia is something between a hotel and a museum. From 1915 until 1985 it was a cold storage plant which processed, froze and exported meat from Patagonia. The complex became a National Monument in 1996, a museum in 2004 and a hotel in 2011. All the original turbines and machines are still in place, with labels explaining their function.

The Singular Patagonia is family owned, and this by the Sahli family in the second generation. They put emphasis on reflecting the identity, the heritage, the social and cultural soul of where their hotels are located. Their other property is in Santiago, opened 2014 in the Lastarria neighborhood.

Ambiance/Staff

The Singular Patagonia does not hide that it used to be a slaughterhouse. It stands its ground, serving as proud symbol of the community’s history and traditions. The ambiance here is unstuffy and relaxed. Staff is gracious, accommodative and eager to please you.

Rooms

All the 57 rooms are in the newly built modern annex.

It suits the ancient buildings in which you find the reception, lobby and restaurants. All the rooms have the same glorious view overlooking the Ultima Esperanza Fiord. And this through floor-to-ceiling picture windows.

There is ample space with generous bathrooms.

And you find here a mix of modern and Victorian reproduction furniture.

Restaurants

The main dining spot, Singular Restaurant, serves exquisite French inspired food in a sophisticated yet casual setting.

Chef Hernán Basso prepares refined dishes with local ingredients just as guanaco or austral hake. His signature meal, lamb shoulder for two, is first-rate indeed. If you are on half board, you can choose three courses from the menu. And this meal plan also includes drinks and the house wines. My husband’s and my dinners at The Singular Restaurant were the best we had in Patagonia.

In addition, you find here also Desayunador, the breakfast place,

El Adasdor, specialized in wood-fired meats (not always open) and the Bar for light meals.

Other facilities

On site there is a 280 sqm spa with indoor and outdoor pool, sauna, steam room and treatment units. There are also bikes available so you can explore the surroundings by cycling.

Excursions

The excursions at The Singular Patagonia – included in the all-inclusive arrangement – are varied. They range from their signature full day trip to the Balmaceda Glacier on one of their small privately owned boats to trekking and horse riding outings in the area and full day excursions to the Torres del Paine National Park.

On our stay, the full-day navigation to Fiords and Glaciers by boat did not take place because it was too windy (370 US$ per person), so we settled for two half day hiking tours in the surroundings (120 US$ per half day and person). They are carried out in small groups and are well organized and led. They also include drinks and snacks.

Overall The Singular Patagonia

Although The Singular Patagonia is quite a bit away from the Torres del Paine National Park, my husband and I enjoyed our stay here more than our other at a luxury hotel just outside the park’s boundaries (see below). In my opinion, it offers much more value for money, especially if you choose the half board option. We did so as we were in no need of the third meal per day. Plus, we wanted to be flexible as to excursions. In addition, we liked The Singular’s vibe and the food much better, which were more upscale than it was the case at its competitor.  I would especially recommend this hotel if you do not want to do long and strenuous hikes at every day of your stay (for instance nine hour-hike to the Base of Torres del Paine).

Now to the second lodging we had in Patagonia, which turned out – as mentioned – to be a bit of a disappointment. This in particular given the steep rate of almost 3,000 US$ per day.

Staying in style at Hotel Tierra Patagonia

As to the headline, I have to backtrack a little. We did not receive as much luxury as the high price would suggest. If you really want to stay in style adjacent to the Torres del Paine National Park, then I suggest choosing Hotel Awasi Patagonia instead. While I have not been here, I resided at Hotel Awasi Atacama – post to follow – , which was top notch. And I suppose the experience is not much different at their sister lodge in Patagonia. But back to Tierra Patagonia.

The Tierra Patagonia’s back story

Tierra Patagonia is the middle child of three – the others are in the Atacama Desert and on Chiloé Island. This hotel group was founded by the Chilean Purcell family, who previously also was the sole owner of it. End of 2022, the Australian based ultra-luxury Baillie Lodges acquired a majority share in Tierra Hotels. This collection of luxury hotels had been bought in 2019 by KSL Capital Partners, an investment company.

The Tierra Patagonia is not only thoughtfully built so it almost disappears into the land, it is also a true beauty. The building is of a sweeping, curving shape that is inspired by the wind. And lots of it is finished in local wood, both in the exteriors and the interiors.

Ambiance/Staff

While the property is generous and nicely designed, it is everything but stylish or chic. Despite its modern appearance, it has a rustic and down-to earth flair. Tierra Patagonia is not the place to dress up or to have a sophisticated dinner. Instead, you find here guests in casual gear and also in bigger groups – there was a big German group on our stay. As a consequence of the open plan layout, it also can get quite noisy.

Staff was a bit a mixed package. Whereas the expedition team knows to persuade in every aspect, this is not the case at the restaurant and the adjacent bar. Most servers were friendly and helpful yet some lacked competence and experience. For my husband and me, the approach was a bit too much on the casual side, again in view of the elevated price level.

Rooms

All 40 rooms in the low-lying, two-story building offer uninterrupted views of the Torres mountains, which are on the other side of the lake. It definitely is a highlight to watch the changing scenery through the big picture windows! There are two types of room (apart from the suites), the Standard with 33 sqm and the Superior with 36 sqm. While I found the Superior’s bathroom quite spacious, the bedroom felt a bit cramped to me. Again there is lots of wood in the rooms along with a simple, minimalist decor.

Restaurant/Bar

There is as mentioned a single restaurant with a bar. Coming from the lobby, you pass a few tables by a fire place and a round bar before reaching – seamlessly – the restaurant. If you happen to have a table near the bar, this might be inconvenient. This is especially the case if a large group – the mentioned German party of about 25 persons – has pre-dinner drinks here.

As to food, there usually is a daily changing menu for dinner (barbecue on Saturdays). You can make your choice out of three starters, three mains (meat, fish, vegetarian) and two desserts respectively cheese or ice cream/sorbet. Some dishes were good, other were nothing special. If you are a foodie with certain expectations, you probably will be disappointed by the offer. For sure, value for money is not good enough.

Other facilities

On site you find a Uma spa with an indoor pool that comes with hydro-massage and waterjets. An outdoor whirlpool and yoga sessions in a separate room complete the offer. If you want to make a self-guided walk on the premises, no problem. There is a path to Sarmiento Lake, and you can walk along its edge for quite a long stretch.

Excursions

All the excursions – also the sailing to Grey Glacier, which is highly recommended – are included in the room rate.

Apart from the mentioned sailing it is about exploring the park via walks/hikes, biking or riding, and this in form of half or full day trips. The excursion team does a really good job. A dedicated coordinator advises the guests as well arranges and accompanies the activities. Young guides with much elan carry through the excursions, in small groups. We loved the experience, which also included drinks and snacks.

Overall Tierra Patagonia

At the risk of repeating myself: I do not think that Tierra Patagonia is worth its high price tag. Of course, the building in nothing short of impressive. Plus, the hotel is conveniently located for visiting the Torres del Paine National Park. And last but not least, the excursion team does a brilliant job. But that is it. Rooms are rather small and nothing special. The quality of food is mixed. Service at the restaurant/bar varies. Bottom line, Tierra Patagonia rather feels like an average four-star establishment, and this as absolute wallet breaker! Yet it seems that the demand is there!

Looking back and forward in my Chile & Buenos Aires reporting

My last and first blogpost about Chile and Buenos Aires was about a 20-day itinerary in style my husband and I did. It is first and foremost about My Google Map including all the luxury lodging and fine dining restaurants we were. Plus, I list all the activities we did. This also involves city tours in keywords to Buenos Aires, Santiago and Valparaiso. And everything comes with correspondent pictures.

This very post delivered all the details to our Patagonia stay at two high-end hotels, The Singular Patagonia and the Tierra Patagonia near the Torres del Paine Nationalpark. I will do the same for the Atacama Desert in my next post where we lodged at the Awasi.

Then I will also let you know where to stay and dine in style in Santiago, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires.

Date of stay: November 2023

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The post Staying in style in Southern Patagonia/Chile around Torres del Paine first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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This is for sure one of Germany’s top hotels, the 5-star Hotel Traube Tonbach in the rural surroundings of the Black Forest, in the country’s south. My husband and I have stayed here recently, and this for the third time already. And it is a great choice not only for foodies – their restaurants feature four Michelin stars in total – , but also ideal for active travelers. As the Traube Tonbach is located in the Black Forest, it is especially geared to hiking. But it does not stop here! One of the best things at this hotel with history – it goes back to 1789 – is its exemplary hospitality. The Finkbeiner Family, owners since the very beginning, does everything to make their guests comfortable.

After this short overview, I would like to go more into details to bring this excellent hotel closer to you. I start with some information on this place’s back story.

Hotel Traube Tonbach’s backstory

I find it fascinating that Traube Tonbach has been in the hands of the same family since its early days. And this is about the Finkbeiners. It was in the year of 1789 when Tobias Finkbeiner opened a tavern called Bauernstube for thirsty charcoal burners and lumberjacks. And imagine, this dining room still existed until it burnt down in 2020. More to this drastic incident later on …

The first steps

Over the years, lots of changes happened. Here to the most important ones. In 1920, first guests were hosted over night. In 1957, Willi Finkbeiner opened a new guesthouse, the first wing of today’s main house, with 64 beds. It was one of the first inns in the area featuring a bathroom and a balcony.

The birth of a gourmet temple

In 1977, the Finkbeiner Family launched a new restaurant, the Schwarzwaldstube. It soon became a magnet for lovers of fine dining, in particular since Harald Wohlfahrt took over as head chef in 1980 (he started 1978 as sous chef). One of the many highlights in his career at Hotel Traube Tonbach was certainly when Michelin awarded three stars to Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube in 1992.

After 40 long years at the Schwarzwaldstube, Harald Wohlfahrt met an unpleasant end in 2017. This was when an out-of-court settlement was reached between him and the Finkbeiner Family as to his departure. It was rumored that he had not been content with his job as a culinary director when Torsten Michel took over as head chef at Schwarzwaldstube in 2016. This handover had apparently already been fixed years ago. As silence about the mentioned settlement was agreed, one does not know for sure what really happened. Be it as it may, Torsten Michel was able to carry on the legacy of the successful Schwarzwaldstube. Find details about it in a section to come in this blogpost.

Traube Tonbach under the current management

Heiner Finkbeiner took the helm of Hotel Traube Tonbach in 1993, and this as 7th generation of the Finkbeiner Family. Together with his wife Renate he advanced this hospitality company into the next century. In 2009, they were joined by their sons, Matthias and Sebastian Finkbeiner, who started to work in the management of the Hotel Traube Tonbach.

Renovation of Haus Kohlwald

An important milestone in recent times was certainly the complete refurbishment of Haus Kohlwald (in 2012), the dependance opposite the main house. Of the 41 double and single rooms only 22 double rooms and apartments plus one suite remained. The renovated Haus Kohlwald presents itself now as as timeless, Black Forest inspired building with contemporarily styled accommodations.

Original inn destroyed by fire

The devastating fire that destroyed the original ancestral inn also fell in Heiner Finkbeiner’s time. The building from 1789 housing the famous three-star Michelin Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube, the Restaurant Koehlerstube and the Restaurant Bauernstube became a victim of a fire because of a technical defect. This took place in January 2020. Gone with the fire were also the Michelin stars – they are always linked to the restaurants and not to the chefs!

A temporary home for these three dining spots was constructed in record time, called “Temporaire”, opened in May 2020. And also the Michelin stars came back with these interim restaurants!

In April 2022, the newly constructed “restaurants house” opened its door. While the Schwarzwaldstube got its previous space with a view, the two other dining spots experienced concept changes. Now the Koehlerstube has made room for the new gourmet outlet 1789. It features just a few tables in relaxed setting filling the space where the Bauernstube used to be. The latter’s concept is now part of the new casual eatery Schatzhauser, named after the forest spirit, the guardian of the charcoal burners and lumberjacks. Here you get a broad selection of dishes, also everyday cuisine, and this with a view too. More about the food experience at all these places follows later in this post.

After this look at Traube Tonbach’s history, now to more practical aspects.

Location of Traube Tonbach

The Traube Tonbach is set at the end of the Tonbach valley amidst the northern Black Forest in Germany’s south. It belongs to the township of Baiersbronn, 8 minutes  away by car. The main town here is Freudenstadt, which you reach in 21 minutes by car. The latter features Germany’s largest marketplace and a nice arcade architecture. The next bigger city is Karlsruhe, an hour and a quarter from the Tonbach valley.

You are here in rural surroundings, in a climatic health resort at an elevation of 550 – 860 m (1,804 –  2,822 ft) above sea level. The Black Forest National Park – ideal for hiking – is only steps away. By the way, my husband and I did a really nice hike here, on mostly narrow paths through heavily moss-covered forest filled with towering trees. It is called the Baiersbronner Tonbachsteig. Here is the link to outdooractive, a great digital guide to the outdoors, with directions (moderate difficulty, duration of about four hours).

Ambiance/Staff at Hotel Traube Tonbach

Hospitality and leadership

I mentioned it already, the Finkbeiner Family keeps hospitality dearly. The senior director and owner, Heiner Finkbeiner, does the round of all the four restaurants everyday at dinnertime to check on his guests. And he does this in such an eloquent way, finding the right words at all times.

Yet you also see other family members doing their (mundane) duty. For example, on one morning, we experienced Matthias Finkbeiner, one of the junior directors, doing breakfast service. He welcomed the guests and escorted them to their tables.

As to the (employed) staff, there is lots of them, more than 320 in numbers, and this with  151 rooms. And they do their respective jobs in a dedicated way. In this context, I would like to highlight the employees at Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube in particular. On our three visits so far, they put on a performance that is second to none. There is Stéphane Gass, the sommelier, on the one hand who has been working here for 32 years (and still looks young). On the other hand, it is about the really young maître d’ (born in 1992), Nina Mihilli. She has had this position for a year now and was already awarded as host of the year 2023 by Gault Millau.

Overall, you get the impression that the Finkbeiners do many things right as to hospitality and leadership. Now some brief remarks to the vibe and the clientele at Hotel Traube Tonbach.

Vibe and clientele

Although you never see the senior director without suit and tie, there is a fairly relaxed vibe going on at Hotel Traube Tonbach. Above all, it is a leisure hotel where guests come for unwinding in beautiful rural surroundings. Said that, the place has class. There are some long-standing traditions that are upheld and treasured by management and many regular guests (80% are patrons!) as well.

First of all, the atmosphere in the main house – where you find most guest rooms and the half-board and breakfast restaurant Silberberg – is still as it was decades ago. There have been some modernizations in the recent past, all of them soft. These concern the accommodations but also the public rooms. The bar

and the restaurant were upgraded yet the traditional Black Forest feel (in an upscale way) was kept. The same is true for how breakfast and half-board go. This is quite in contrast to the “restaurants house” and Haus Kohlwald where the ambiance is contemporary.

In terms of clientele, most guests come regularly – as mentioned. There is a considerable number of families, often over three generations. Otherwise, guests are mixed, some are younger but most are in middle age. There are lots of Germans, quite a few from France and some Swiss.

Rooms/Pricing

Earlier on, I already let you know some details about Hotel Traube Tonbach’s accommodations. To repeat it briefly, the rooms in the main house  – 129 units – are kept in an elegant country house style. The suites are more upmarket, with a Black Forest ambiance. In contrast, the accommodations at Haus Kohlwald – opposite the main house – are styled contemporarily. This annex underwent a complete renovation before it was reopened in 2012.

When my husband and I stayed first at Hotel Traube Tonbach – back in 2010 – , we opted for a Junior Suite in the main house. While it featured a generous layout and was perfectly kept, we would have preferred a more modern accommodation. So, we were delighted about the contemporary lodging in Haus Kohlwald when returning in 2013. And again, on our recent stay, we went for a room in the latter mentioned building. Before providing some details about this room, let me go briefly in the available lodging categories at Traube Tonbach.

Lodging in general

You are spoilt for choice in case you want to stay here. The least expensive room category is the Standard Queen option (25 sqm, from about 300 € in low season). The next higher ones are: Standard Double, Comfort, Grand Comfort, Premium/Premium Kohlwald, Superior and Deluxe. If you rather want to have a suite, you can choose from: Junior Suite, Suite, Unique Suite and Unique Panorama Suite Kohlwald. Plus there are Family Apartments, both at the main house and at the Haus Kohlwald.

All the room categories feature a balcony or a terrace. And they include a splendid breakfast buffet, an afternoon buffet with small bites, guided walks, bike rentals, gym lessons and more.

Now – as announced – to the room we had recently and in 2013.

Haus Kohlwald – Premium: our choice of room at Hotel Traube Tonbach

This time, our Premium Room at Haus Kohlwald was on the top floor, which offers the best view of the beautiful Tonbach valley.

The accommodations of this category are spacious (45 to 55 sqm) and have a large bed with two mattresses. There is much of space, be in the entrance area or in the main one. In the former you find an oversized desk plus lots of space for your clothes. In the latter there is a generous lounge area.

The bathroom has a tub and a separate shower plus double sinks.

The balcony is equipped with a sun lounger and a table with two chairs. While you can use the spa facilities at the main house, there are also some basic ones including a small lawn for sunbathing at Haus Kohlwald.

Next will be about the restaurants, one of the major reasons we keep returning to Traube Tonbach.

Restaurants

Again there is an agony of choice when it comes to food and drinks. In total, you find nine spots, from the three-star Michelin restaurant to the Pool Bar. When it comes to dining (full meal), there are still four of them to choose from. I start with the most casual one and end with the signature place.

Schatzhauser

As I already let you know this is one of three dining spots in the new “restaurants house”. It is named after the good forest spirit from a famous Black Forest fairy tale. Here you get Swabian-Badish cuisine but also international one, especially Asian food and steaks from the grill. Florian Stolte is in charge here, the one-star Michelin chef who is also responsible for Restaurant 1798. And Schatzhauser is listed in the Michelin Guide too, it has a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

As to the style of Schatzhauser, it has a contemporary decor. In addition to the spacious interiors, it also features an outdoor seating. Both offer this wonderful view of the Tonbach valley.

I have not eaten here yet, so I cannot give a judgement as to the dining experience. You get here snacks to accompany your pre-dinner drinks (4.90 to 18.90 €), dishes (10.50 to 40.00 €) and steaks from the lava stone grill (49.60 to 198 €, the latter probably for two persons). Desserts are available from 3.90 € (one scoop of ice cream) to 13.50 €.

Silberberg

Silberberg is the place where you get your half board arrangement. You can make use of it if you stay at Traube Tonbach for at least two nights. Then it costs 57 € per person and day. In case you are here for one night only, you may still book it. In this case, they charge 77 € during the week and 97 € on Saturdays. On the helm at Silberberg is Juergen Reidt. He prepares a five-course meal with his team every night, usually with several options to choose from.

This half board restaurant is the same where the breakfast and the afternoon buffet takes place. And it is kept – as already informed – in an upscale Black Forest style, i.e. it is quite traditional. And the dining room is huge, after all there are 151 rooms at Hotel Traube Tonbach.

On our recent stay, we did not eat here. However, we had one dinner at Silberberg when we first came to this hotel back in 2010. And I remember it well, although I do not have many details to offer. You may also check out the short review I did at the time, where I briefly go into this meal.

1789

This is one of two Michelin starred restaurants at Hotel Traube Tonbach. Precisely, it has one Michelin star (Gault Millau gives it three toques, which corresponds to 15/16 points). And 1789 is the place where chef Florian Stolte is at work. As I already let you know, this dining spot arose from the former Koehlerstube. Here Florian Stolte was already on the helm, and this since 2012. And his efforts were crowned in 2019 with a Michelin star. The restaurant name goes back to the year when Traube Tonbach was founded.

1789 is a small place, with just about ten tables. You have the impression of being in some kind of living room. The decor is contemporary but at the same time oozes cosyness. What I also appreciated, was the air conditioning in here as we visited this eatery on a hot summer day. In terms of cuisine, it has a strong Asian orientation yet you also notice well the chef’s upbringing in kitchens where traditional French cooking techniques were widely used.

Dinner experience at 1789

You do not have to think long when it comes to ordering. There is only one menu, either with meat and fish (180 €) or in a vegetarian variant (145 €). While this sounds like quite an expensive meal, the ingredients they use here are top notch. And they also know how to prepare excellent dishes out of them!

What was on the menu?

Already the amuse bouche was impressive. It was a handsome portion of goose liver ice cream, duck liver paste interlaced with mango. It tasted just great!

Next we were delighted with madai, Japanese sea bream, in two versions. It is known in Japan as “celebration” fish, and it came with Imperial Caviar. It continued in the same furious manner, first turbot with truffle and then the high quality gamba carabinera in a tom kha soup!

Both were excellent dishes.

The meat course was a bit more modest, poularde with palm heart yet not less tasty. And the two desserts were perfectly matched, the first a sesame creation paired with vanilla and passion fruit, the second Valrhona chocolate in unison with fruity touches.

How was the service?

While my husband and I very much enjoyed the fabulous meal, it was a bit marred by a somewhat inexperienced female server who advised us (not very expertly) on choosing the right wine to accompany the food. Otherwise, service was good and smooth. We felt well at ease at this high-end yet relaxed dining spot. One more thing caught my attention, one table was not occupied, and this on a Saturday evening in early July. I could imagine that this might be related to the rather high price tag of the meal. While it is definitely justified in view of the first class products used, I am not sure whether this concept works unreservedly.

Schwarzwaldstube

A dinner at the Schwarzwaldstube is always a huge highlight, also in the life of a hardcore foodie! And my husband and I are lucky enough to have experienced it already for the third time. However, the last occasion goes back ten years. But of course you should not overdo such dinners, otherwise they lose their appeal. And this time the meal took place under a new chef and in a totally different setting. As I already did elaborate, the premises are new, inaugurated a bit more than a year ago, though the restaurant is exactly at the same spot as it was before.

When entering the dining room I was in awe of the high gable. This feature is very much in contrast to earlier times, when there was a low ceiling instead, although an impressive wooden one. Now everything looks lighter – thanks to huge panorama windows – and more modern. Schwarzwaldstube’s best asset in terms of interiors is the great view of the Black Forest that you have from every table. As to the latter, there are about ten of them, one less than at the time as the restaurant manager told us. And the space is air-conditioned, what I very much welcomed on a hot summer evening.

The staff’s looks are more modern too. Sneakers are the order of the day. Black suit and tie or dirndl are a thing of the past.

Before going into our recent dinner experience at Schwarzwaldstube, a view at the restaurant’s rating in the leading gourmet guides.

Rating of Schwarzwaldstube in gourmet guides

The Michelin Guide judges the cuisine’s performance with Torsten Michel in charge as the non plus ultra (three stars), and in my humble opinion, they are absolutely right. You get here a thoughtful mix of tradition and modernity, and this with the best produce conceivable. Gault Millau’s rating is not less favorable. The Schwarzwaldstube gets the maximum of five toques (corresponds to 19 points out of 20), and this as one restaurant from four in total in Germany. And with La Liste, it ranks in the 16th place as best dining spot in Germany.

Dinner experience at Schwarzwaldstube

As the two previous dinners here it was like “oh wow that was really great”! You get at the Schwarzwaldstube an exciting cuisine, grounded in classical French tradition but inspired by modern influences.

When dining here, you can decide between the Small Degustation Menu (five courses for 265 €), the Large Degustation Menu (seven courses for 295 €) or the Vegetarian Menu (six courses for 245 €). Alternatively, you can order from an à la carte menu. And you may also – as the gracious host, Nina Mihilli, let us know – incorporate dishes from this section into the degustation menu. While I was tempted to do so, I refrained from it. I am sure the chef knows what he does when composing a menu!

What was on the menu?

And everything we had – we chose the large menu – was so good! Be it the amuse bouche, a carrot variation full of flavor,

or the first starter, a mosaic of duck liver, quail breast and sweetbread. And nothing else can be said as to what followed: Breton lobster with passion fruit and red bell pepper chutney

as well as sea bass with cauliflower mushrooms and lotus root. Also the main course knew how to convince, roe deer with a juniper crust paired with chanterelles and pineapple.

Before the sweet finale, the beautifully sorted cheese trolley pulls up at the Schwarzwaldstube. Responsible for it is the Alsatian affineur Bernard Antony, who brings some of the finest cheeses to market. After asking about our preferences, the server put together a composition for us. Then it was time for two desserts. First, there was delectable cherry-chocolate biscuit creation, probably inspired by the famous Black Forest cherry cake. An explosion of tastes, textures and flavors was next: mango sorbet and Indian spices, Muscovada savarin, salted peanut caramel and iced Espresso. And the final point set a fabulous selection of petit fours.

What an amazing meal this was!

How was the service?

The service – under the lead of host Nina Mihilli and sommelier Stéphane Gass – hit the perfect notes of warmth and friendliness with an unstaged authenticity. And chef Torsten Michel seems to be a really gracious person. Each time he appeared in the dining room – I also caught sight of him at Restaurant 1789 – , he waved and smiled. Plus, he spent a lot of time on making the rounds after dinner to talk to his guests. This in contrast to his predecessor from whom I never saw a glimpse on my previous two visits. Once again, my husband and I thoroughly loved our experience at Schwarzwaldstube, from the exceptional cuisine to the perfectly orchestrated service, and this time in a setting that is light, chic and airy!

Not only the restaurant selection at Hotel Traube Tonbach is impressive, but also the other facilities leave nothing to be desired.

Other facilities

Spa/Pool

The spa including the sauna and pool area was completely redesigned in 2001. The sauna area has it all: forest, sound, infrared or bio sauna plus floral steam bath and ice igloo. In 2012, the spa was enlarged and offers now nine luxurious treatment rooms. In addition to the spa in the main house there also is a small spa lounge at Haus Kohlwald. It features a textile family sauna with panorama windows, a steam bath and a large whirlpool.

As to the pool area, the outdoor pool received an update in 2016. From then on, all the pools are filled with fresh water from the local Buschbrunnen spring. Apart from the spacious heated outdoor pool, there are two lap pools, three whirlpools and a children’s pool. Plus, you find here a pool bar and a gym.

For children

The former tennis hall was reconstructed and has been the Kids’ Court since 2006. It offers lots of space for children to play to their heart’s content. Among other things you find here a game room, a cookery school, a chill out room, a cozy corner, indoor football or bobby cars. The child care center is open to kids from three years on. They can have lunch and dinner here as well. In addition to the Kid’s Court, a huge playground was built on its roof in 2015. And swimming courses for children are also an option.

Activities

Traube Tonbach’s surrounding nature is great for hiking or biking. While of course you can do this individually, there is an alternative, though. The hotels offers an activity program with a variety of things to do in groups. As to my husband and myself, we did a great hike. For instructions, refer to the above location section. And if you want to bike and did not bring your own, there is a free rental of e-bikes and mountain e-bikes too.

In case you should be into golfing, the nearest 18-hole golf course is located 12 km/8 mi away in Freudenstadt. And more are in the near surroundings.

The Chapel

And imagine, there is even a hotel chapel, the Franziska Chapel! It is located on the third floor and comes complete with a pipe organ. It is at your disposal for a quiet moment or a short prayer. And it is available for weddings, baptisms or other events too.

Overall

When checking in to the luxury Hotel Traube Tonbach in the Black Forest in Germany’s south, you get everything you could wish for. It is not only a pilgrim spot for foodies – Schwarzwaldstube with three Michelin stars and 1789 with one of them – , but has lots to offer in all the other important areas too. It is great for spa addicts, nature lovers, active people (on your own or in groups organized by the hotel) and families. Everything is taken care of, there is even a chapel inside the hotel.

As to lodging, I suggest choosing the main house for people who like a more traditional style. For those into modern accommodations, I advise to opt for the Haus Kohlwald. As to food, either dine at one of the Michelin starred spots, go for the half-board option or eat at the relaxed Schatzhauser. The choice is yours! For lunch or small bites, there also is a handful of places to go. And what I really find awesome at the Traube Tonbach is that it has been family owned and managed since eight generations! And they know their business here, the hospitality is second to none. You see, it is the total package!

Last stay: July 2023

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Buthan, the mystic kingdom in the Himalayas, is something very special. You will not find another like it! After sharing a travel guide with you in my last post, here is the perfect Bhutan 9-day itinerary how to explore the otherworldly Land of the Thunder Dragon. The journey goes to Buthan’s heartland, the four valleys of Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and Phobjikha. This is the west of the country that most of the travelers see. And this for good reason. It is home to the only international airport, the capital and has a great density of sights.

Before going into details about the places my husband and I visited, here is an overview on all my blogposts about Bhutan.

My mini series about Bhutan travel

As mentioned at the beginning, I already did a travel guide with all the essentials to know when planning to come to Bhutan. As to what will follow, there it is.

In my next post, I will outline how to travel the suggested itinerary via an arrangement by a luxury hotel. There are three international high-end hotel groups that operate in Druk Yul – that is how the locals call their home land. And I want to compare these three. Then I will provide information about traveling Bhutan with our choice of hotel. To end this mini series about the Land of the Thunder Dragon, I will inform about possible pre- and post-Bhutan stays. This because it is usually not possible to fly in directly from more distant countries.

Now to our perfect Bhutan 9-day itinerary.

My Google Map of a Bhutan 9-day itinerary

You find the Bhutan travel plan my husband and I followed in the form of a Google Map. It includes all the (luxury) hotels we stayed, a recommended restaurant we ate (there is only one as we had a full board package) and the things we did. One tip: to experience Bhutan at its most authentic, it is a good idea to throw in a few lesser visited sites and walks/hikes! As to the nature of attractions – the terminology – check out my travel guide.

In case you wonder about other things to do in west Bhutan than mentioned in my Bhutan 9-day itinerary, there are many more. Yet my husband and I had decided that we wanted to explore the four valleys by walking as much as possible. This is supposed to be the royal road to fully immerse into Druk Yul. Because that is what the locals do all the time, at least in the rural regions outside of Paro and Thimphu. I mentioned it in the description of the individual sights in case we walked/hiked to them.

From place to place in west Bhutan, a perfect 9-day itinerary

To begin, a short overview on our 9-night trip. We started and ended with two days in Paro each. The first stay consisted of general sightseeing, the second one was dedicated to the hike to the Tiger’s Nest. Next was the Punakha Valley, where we spent three days in subtropical surroundings. Before our return to Paro, we had two more days in the Phobjikha Valley. Here we delved even deeper into the country’s rural landscapes.

1. Paro Valley 2,200m/7,200ft (day 1&2, day 8&9), 1st & 4th stop Bhutan 9-day itinerary

This is where every visitor arriving by air starts his or her Bhutan journey. The charming town of Paro with a population of about 50,000 lies on the bank of the Paro river. From the impressive Paro Dzong

it is not far to its main street, only built in 1985. It is lined with colorful wooden buildings that all look more or less the same.

1.1. General sightseeing

1.1.1 Paro Dzong

One of the major sights here is the before mentioned Paro Dzong. It sits atop a hill, in a commanding position, overlooking the entire valley. It was constructed in the 17th century and is also called Rinpung Dzong, fortress of the jewel hill.

When my husband and I arrived in Paro at the beginning of April 2023, the Paro Tsechu Festival took place. This is considered as one of the country’s most important ones where masked dancers perform their art. We had not planned our trip around the festival, so we were just lucky of having the chance to attend. And it really was worth it! It was a colorful affair – from the dancers

to the audience

– and allowed us a unique cultural insight.

1.1.2. Walk/Hike to Zuri Dzong Monastery Paro/National Museum Paro

I dearly remember our first walk/hike starting at our hotel (COMO Paro) up the hill towards Zuri Dzong Monastery Paro.

You need about half three quarters of an hour to reach it, walking through beautiful cypress and pine trees. It is one of the oldest dzongs, dating back to 1352. From here you have a stunning panoramic view of the Paro Valley

(we did not enter the premises).

The walk/hike can be continued in the direction of the National Museum, housed in an ancient watchtower, which requires another half hour. It offers a good introduction to the Buthanese heritage and traditions.

1.1.3. Other sights in Paro

If you have more time available, consider driving to Drukgyel Dzong Paro

northwest of Paro. You find another dzong a this spot, where the highway ends. It was erected to control the northern route to Tibet. For a long time, this dzong had been in ruins. Yet recently, it was completely rebuilt. In the time to come, it shall be opened to the public.

On your way back to Paro, make a stop at Kyichu Lhakhang Temple Paro.

It is one of the country’s oldest temples, built in the 7th century. There is a belief that the two orange trees in the courtyard bear fruit throughout the year.

1.2. Tiger’s Nest Monastery Paro Taktsang Hike

This is one of Bhutan’s most incredible sights, the monastery perched on the side of a sheer cliff 900 m/2,953 ft above the floor of the Paro Valley. Without a doubt, a first time trip to Bhutan would not be complete without seeing it!

The complex was built in 1692, around the cave where Guru Rinpoche first meditated. He is said to have brought the Buddhism from Tibet to Bhutan arriving here on the back of a tiger. Thus, giving this place the name “Tiger’s Nest”.

Getting here involves some effort, meaning an intermediate to difficult hike (700 m/2,297 ft up). Allow about five hours for this activity (including a one-hour temple tour). Start early in the morning to avoid crowds. Plan to leave the monastery around midday. At this time the lighting is ideal for photography. Anyone of average fitness can do this hike, just do not rush it!

2. Thimphu Valley 2,248m/7,375ft (transit only)

I do not consider Bhutan’s capital of Thimphu Town as a must-see on your Bhutan trip. If you expect an idyllic town, you will be disappointed. The traditional houses are fast being replaced by multi-story high-rise buildings. And the town incessantly grows in all directions. As many other Asian countries, Bhutan suffers from rural exodus. Problematic in the case of Thimphu is it that there are by far not enough job opportunities for all the people coming from the countryside.

Be it as it may, there are still some sights you should not miss in Thimphu. We passed it twice on our way from Paro to Punakha and back (it is a bit more than a one-hour drive from Paro).

2.1. Buddha Dordenma Statue Thimphu

The huge 51 m/169 ft statute of Buddha Dordenma is located in a commanding position above Thimphu Town. It is made of bronze and gilded in gold, just as the over 100,000 smaller Buddha statues that come with the huge Buddha. The statue was made in China, cut in pieces and reassembled onsite. Its construction began in 2006 and ended in 2015. A businessman from Singapore sponsored the statue, which costed 100 million US$.

2.2. Traffic cop on Thimphu’s busiest intersection

Bhutan is probably the only country worldwide whose capital does not have a single traffic light. Instead, you find a traffic cop at Thimphu’s busiest intersection. He wears white gloves and directs the traffic in an artful way.

From what I learned, there used to be a traffic light at this spot. Yet it was a source of confusion for the road users. Consequently, it was abolished.

2.3. Simply Bhutan Living Museum

Simply Bhutan is an interactive living museum that gives a quick introduction to different aspects of traditional Buthanese life. You learn how Ara, the rice wine, is made, and you can also try it. They inform about the way they construct their houses. There is also the chance to give their national sport, archery, a shot. And you can watch women doing the typical festival dances while you sip traditional butter tea.

Although the whole thing is rather touristy, it is fun, and you need less than an hour to do the whole tour.

2.4. Dochula Pass

If you do not go to Punakha from Paro, it is still worth doing the trip to the nearby Dochula Pass (about a 45-minute drive from Thimphu). This, in particular, if it is a sunny and clear day. Then you have good chances to view the snow-covered Himalaya peaks from here (which are 7,000 m / 23,000 ft about sea level).

My husband and I crossed this mountain pass (3,100 m/10,300 ft) twice, but we had no luck with the weather, so no snow mountains for us. Yet, we had a look at the 108 memorial chortens (shrines) or stupas (tombs), built in 2004.

3. Punakha Valley 1,242m/4,075ft (day 3-5), 2nd stop Bhutan 9-day itinerary

You get to Punakha in a four- to five-hour drive from Paro. And you encounter a totally different world here. As it is at a lower elevation, it is warmer and has a subtropical climate. It is the main producer of rice, also the red one, which is nuttier in taste. And you find here also banana and orange trees.

Punakha is located at the banks of two beautiful rivers, Po Chhu (Male) and Mo Chhu (Female).

There is also the opportunity to do white-water rafting. The town used to be the country’s capital, until 1955. In terms of things to do in Punakha, there is a wide choice to choose from.

3.1. Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten Punakha

Climbing the hill to this chorten or stupa – a religious monument – is a popular thing to do. You need about half an hour to do so, starting at a footbridge in Yepaisa Village. The chorten, built in 2004, was built to ward off negative forces and to spread peace and harmony to everyone. From its roof, you have a fabulous panorama vista of Punakha’s terraced fields.

3.2. Punakha Dzong

This dzong, erected in the 17th century, is arguably Bhutan’s most beautiful one. At the same time, it is the country’s second oldest and second largest one. And it is the winter home of Je Khenpo, the Chief Abbot, staying here with 1,000 monks. Punakha Dzong is also known under the name of the “palace of great happiness”

3.4. Chorten Nyingpo Lhakhang Punakha

Horten Nyingpo is a monastery in Kabisa, built in 17th century. You can reach it by car along a small, curvy road yet it is much more rewarding to hike up to this remote and lesser visited place. In such a way, you are most times in the forest, pass a village at some point and have great views of Punakha’s rice fields.

Once arrived – you need about 1 1/4 hour by foot from Hotel COMO Punakha – , do not “only” visit the monastery but also walk around a bit. View the property from further away, have a look at the picturesque surroundings and at the impressive archery ground in the adjacent village.

3.5. Other sights in Punakha

A popular monastery is Chimi Lhakhang Punakha, also known as fertility temple. This is easy to recognize from the motifs you find here. The temple was built in honor of the so-called “divine madman” who had an unorthodox way of teaching Buddhism and was fond of women, wine and dance.

The Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Lhakhang Nunnery Punakha is a newly built nunnery constructed in traditional style (2010). It is located on a hill among pine trees, boasting breathtaking views of the Punakha Valley. It is a quiet and peaceful place, and everything is tidy too. 120 nuns live here at this Buddhist College.

The Punakha Suspension Bridge is one of Bhutan’s longest ones, measuring 180 m/590 ft. It is adorned with fluttering prayer flags. It spans over the “Male” river and seems quite stable. Having said that, the bridge may sway a bit when it is windy, and this is quite often.

4. Phobjikha Valley 3,000m/10,000ft (day 6&7), 3rd stop Bhutan 9-day itinerary

This contemplative valley is a great addition to make once you are in Punakha and having two more nights to spend before returning to Paro. You reach the Phobjikha Valley after a three- to four-hour drive from Punakha Valley crossing the Lawa La Pass (3,200 m/10,500 ft).

There is lots of agriculture (especially potato cultivation) in this bowl-shaped glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains. The area is also called Gangte or Gangtey Valley in reference to the Gangtey Goempa Monastery sitting on a ridge above the valley. As to sights here, there is much to to do here as to walking/hiking yet there are also some religious sites.

4.1. Black-Necked Crane Information Center Phobjikha Valley

The Phobjikha Valley is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the country due to the endangered black-necked cranes that winter here. To have a look at this bird – there are two injured ones in a cage – , go to the Black-Necked Crane Information Center. Here you find also informative displays about the black-necked cranes plus an educational 15-minute video. From October to mid-February, you can watch the birds from here feeding on the valley marshlands.

4.2. Walking/Hiking trails in Phobjikha Valley

There is a number of walking/hiking trails to undertake in this area known for its rhododendrons that bloom in spring.

The most popular one is the Gangtey Nature Trail, starting at the Gangtey Monastery. The path winds down through rather flat terrain and ends at the bottom of the valley. You pass pastures, farmhouses and pine forests before coming to a vast open space. Yet, there are many more options to explore the valley by foot, from short walks to immersive three-days treks.

4.3. Gangtey Monastery Phobjikha Valley

The Gangtey Monastery, also known as Gangte Goenpa, is located in a privileged situation at the top of a hill. From here, you can overlook the green expanse of the whole Phobjikha Valley. The monastery, founded in the 17th century, was restored from 2001 to 2008 due to a beetle-larvae infestation. Adjacent to the monastery you find a village where the monks’ families live.

Looking back and forward on my blog

My mini series to Bhutan started with a travel guide for this magic land of fluttering prayer flags, peaceful monasteries and red robed monks. The current post went into the perfect Bhutan 9-day itinerary through four valleys in the country’s west – Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and Phobjikha – the region that most first time travelers visit in this Himalayan nation.

Next on my blog will be a comparison of the three luxury hotels that offer Bhutan itineraries. After this, I give details on our journey through the Land of the Thunder Dragon, arranged by one of these, COMO.

My Bhutan mini series will find an end with outlining opportunities for a pre- and post-stay. This is a necessity because it is usually not possible to reach Druk Yul – yet another name for Bhutan – without a layover, at least when coming from far-away countries.

Date of visit: April 2023

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The post Bhutan in the Himalayas, a perfect 9-day itinerary first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Bhutan in the Himalayas, a perfect 9-day itinerary appeared first on Swiss Traveler.